Kratie, Cambodia: The Mekong, Dolphins and Temples

The Mysterious Mekong Dolphins, Amazing Ancient Temples and the Mighty Mekong

Part 2

It was looking like the thunderstorm was moving in on us from the north so after a few more photos, we piled into the Toyota just as it started to gently rain and headed south, backtracking our way back to Kratie Town along the banks of the Mekong.
As we made our way south, we made a quick stop at another beautiful, wooden temple where I once again took a few photos. It was all closed up however with the entrance gate closed and locked so I had to settle from some shots from the street.
The road (actually a lane) was once again congested with people, vehicles, animals and pets even in spite of the fact that it was starting to rain harder and harder as light turned into dusk. I was in the front seat during this leg with Phanna in the back, straddling the opening between the two front passengers as we discussed in great detail the Cambodian education system.
Although I have experienced it first hand having been a teacher in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap as well as having taught courses at both language schools and universities, I did not agree with some institutions policies of allowing students to attend class as late as they wanted with students not even reporting to class until at least 15-45 minutes after it had started. It seems here in Cambodia, all too often, once a degree has been paid for, that somehow precludes the actual necessity to go to class and learn what is being taught. In my opinion, not the best way to assist in a country's development or show a student what is expected after graduation.
After a few more stops along the way to chat with friends, we eventually enter town and get out of the car across the street from the Red Sun Falling Restaurant which turns out to be the only Barang (foreign) owned bar in town.
Al from Sharkys in Phnom Penh had told me to make sure I visited the place so after saying thanks and goodbye, I crossed the street with Phanna and we set ourselves down on 2 of the 4 bar stools that were in front of the bar.
The proprietor of the establishment is a young guy named "Joe" from Chicago in the good ole U.S. of A. As I was writing this article, I wanted to try his "special" posted to the entrance ways' chalk board as well as have a couple of cold beers.
Joe was friendly enough and filled us in on his personal history and the hows and whys of him coming to Kratie. Also told us about some of the local expats which seemed to number a dozen or so and were all involved with one NGO (Non-Governmental Organization) or another.
The special arrived and it was a pretty decent pasta dish, with salad and some garlic bread, all for 7,000 Riel (less than $2). Not bad I thought. Not bad at all.
Over the next couple of hours we talked about numerous things including the growing number of travelers through Kratie on their way north and south on the Mekong from Laos. Joe stated that at the height of the tourist season that 60-70 folks passed through the ferry terminal here and many chose to stay for at least a night or two before continuing on their journey. With very nice accommodations with large rooms being available for $3 a night, not exactly over taxing on a backpacker's budget. (Kratie however is NOT the place to use the Internet as prices are between $4-7 an hour compared to Phnom Penh's .50 an hour!)
It got to be around 9PM and I felt it best we head home back to Phannas and join his family for a bit. Grabbing a motorcycle taxi we arrived back at Phanna's home where everyone is preparing to go to sleep. A bed has been made up for me in the front living room area which is quite comfortable and after a bit more conversation, we all called it a day and went to our separate beds. It was only moments later I was fast asleep.
DAY 2 - Down the Mekong
The day woke with the noise of the traffic outside and the crowing of the ever present roosters. Even in the "wilds" of Phnom Penh, awakening to sounds of occasional rooster crows and the occasional automatic weapons fire seems to be quite normal. Today however, all I hear here in Kratie, are chickens and cars.
It is early and I don't even realize just how early until I am out of bed getting dressed and putting on my watch. I guess 5:30 AM isn't too early to start the day's adventures and with that thought in mind, I am soon outside, pacing around the area in front of the house and along the graveled street.
After Phanna's mother fixes the family some breakfast and me some tea, there is several long exchanges again with Phanna's father about the development of the province. Phanna's father speaks very little English as being a well educated and an older Khmer, he learned French. Phanna however does an excellent job of relaying our conversation and I learn many more interesting things.
Time is pushing on however and there is a lot to see before we catch the 10:30 high-speed ferry towards Phnom Penh. With this in mind, we set off by foot as Phanna's sister is out and about with their motorbike. She soon catches up with us however and even though she is some distance from their house, turns the bike over to us and we leave her standing on the street next to the Mekong. Seemed a bit odd that we didn't offer to take her back to the house....
Phanna and I are than taken up with the area along the Mekong and its many old French Colonial buildings, wats and wooden pagodas. There is also an area just south of town on the dirt lane closest to the river that has more Vietnamese than Khmer but although it is a bit seedy, the view along the shore is quite beautiful and only a couple of minutes through this area leads us to another beautiful wooden pagoda.
Wat Roka Kandal is a well preserved pagoda dating from the 18th or early 19th century located right next to the banks of the Mekong. It has traditional decorations and is of wooden construction and the information inside state that it is the only one of its type in Cambodia.
A German NGO has helped with the Pagoda's reconstruction and maintenance and inside now there is a local arts and crafts shop.
I was really taken with the beauty of the columns and the views through the surrounding grounds through the beautifully framed windows. After a bit of shopping picking out things for friends back in Phnom Penh, Phanna and I got back on the motorbike and headed once again south along the wide, picturesque streets with their numerous traditional, wooden framed homes.

It has now gotten to the time where we need to start thinking of catching the ferry home to Phnom Penh so we head back north to the central part of town and the ferry docks.
After spending a bit of time in the local market and after grabbing a bite to eat in a restaurant across the street from the docks, we head back to Phanna's house where we return the family's Honda and say our goodbyes.



Phanna's family with wonderful smiles and waves say goodbye to us as we catch a motorcycle taxi to the docks.
A couple of minutes later we pulled up to what was obviously a developing throng of people waiting to catch the various ferries that seemed to be heading out in the next few minutes. As it was only 10 AM and the expected departure time was 10:30, I took a quick hike around the block, snapping some more photos of both buildings and people.
I returned a few moments later, and it seemed the dock had swelled to it was in fact now occupying the riverfront street, with packages, bundles, construction material and food stuffs appearing from everywhere.
As I had been told the boat would be appearing from the north on its way down from the Laos border with Cambodia, I kept an eye in that direction to make sure I caught it as it neared the dock. I wasn't however prepared for the site that was to come into view and as it turned from the main channel and headed towards the shore, as it seemed that it would capsize at any moment.
As I stared in disbelief at the "express" ferry I could only imagine what the slow boat might look like. Was this really going to be the vessel that was to take me and Phanna down the Mekong?
As I had already purchase my $6 ticket (negotiated down from $7) and Phanna his (Khmer price of 15,000 Riel or $3.75), we obviously had no choice as we needed to get back to Phnom Penh and unless we waited for a weekday, the boat probably wouldn't be any less crowded.

 To Chan Thel and Phanna at the Kratie Municipal Dock
After saying our farewells to Phanna's friend who is also an English teacher and part-time tour guide in Kratie, we boarded the boat, crawling our way along the port side cat-walk only inches from the water. As few people had left the heavily laden craft, we had to go back as far as where the engine's exhaust stacks rose from out of the engine room where we climbed up onto the roof which for the remainder of our journey served as our outpost on the Mekong.




It is hard to see the boat under the sea of humanity boarding the ferry.
As we departed Kratie port and set out down the Mekong, it wasn't long before we were moving along at a pretty good clip, far faster than anything else we came across.
Although everything along the journey was interesting, including the numerous stops along the shore to load and unload passengers and cargo, what was particularly interesting early on in the trip was the mid-channel docking at noon with another express boat coming up the Mekong. Done smoothly and quickly, if you hadn't been watching the bow (front) of the boat you probably wouldn't have noticed it happening.

Mekong Express boats docking in mid-channel.
What was also interesting to watch was the young girl walking along the very narrow "catwalk" of the boat selling oranges as it was hurling full-speed down the Mekong. What made me wonder of the longevity of her career was the fact that she chose to neither tie herself off to anything or hold onto what rail there was. Her faith in the boat's buoyancy or the captain's capability or maybe just Buddha was pretty amazing....
At 1PM we had gone as far south as Steang Trong where you notice steep cliffs on the western bank of the river. It was only a half hour later we arrived Kompong Cham, crossing under the huge Japanese bridge spanning the waters of this mighty river.
After a bit of negotiating ($10 for the rear seat), we found ourselves a taxi and were soon winding our way out of the port taxi area and onto the road south to Phnom Penh. At 3:30 PM we passed the Chroy Chang Var Taxi Station just to the east of another Japanese bridge that spans the Mekong in Phnom Penh and were soon once again where we started, the Crystal Net Internet Cafe on Sisowath Quay.