Mystic Sailor's Adventures

Back in Pattaya

2004-10-10T13:23:00.000+07:00

Saturday, 10 October, 2004 – Pattaya

Awoke with the rising sun this morning, in spite of the fact that I am in Pattaya; the land of endless beer and go-go bars and according to government statistics, 75,000 “working girls”. Having come in from Cambodia a week or so ago (who is counting days) for a bit of R& R from Cambodia, it has been wonderful to experience a bit of “civilization” from the never ending chaos, turmoil and dirt that is today’s Cambodia.

Yesterday was an easy day, having taken my time getting out of my door at the Diana Golf Resort and after a short 10 baht ride in the back of a pickup truck referred to here by foreigners as a “baht bus”, made my way to Dolphin Circle where I still was able to find Ms. Lek renting her stable of motorcycles.

She recognized me immediately even though it has been nearly a year since I used one of her bikes and after an exchange of pleasantries, a 1,000 baht deposit and a 200 baht rental charge, I was soon headed down beach road to one of my favorite places for breakfast, the Heaven on Soi 13.

The Heaven is probably one of the better places to chill from Pattaya’s entertainment and action. It is a small out of the way place, with only a handful of rooms surrounding a pool and a rather large and homey feeling restaurant with large screen TV and all the regional newspapers you could possibly want.

After spending an hour or so reading the news and seeing that the king of Cambodia has finally made good on his many months of threats to abdicate, I wonder about what is in store for me with my return to what will obviously be more high drama in the continuing saga of what one might call “Cambodian politics” (I call it gangsters and thugs).

Having spent many years in Thailand, it was in 2003 that I finally made the leap across the border to seek out my “fame and fortune” as Thailand had become far to complicated to either work or live for any extended period of time.

Although Thailand for many years has been my adopted home, even when I have had to leave for extended periods of time, recent policies with the government of Thaskin Shinawatra made it abundantly clear that unless you are very wealthy and/or Asian, you were no longer welcome.

As many resident ex-pats have recently found, life and working in Thailand has gotten far more difficult than it has ever been. From resident visas, to work permits, border crossings and immigration hassles to banking laws, there is no doubt to anyone, that Thailand wants to make it as tough as possible to claim Thailand as your home.

That is terribly sad as Thailand and its common people are truly wonderful. For so many years I have not felt more at home while living in such exotic places as Bangkok, Phuket and along the Eastern Seaboard including Pattaya, Nakula and Bang Chang. I look back through the thousands of photos taken from those years and they are always filled with smiling faces and happy people, having fun and letting the trials and tribulations of western existence wash away.

The thing about Pattaya which keeps bringing me back is it acts as a “anchor” to my living in and around Asia. I know it and its locals intimately, acting as a surrogate family to a man who has none. If you want the “noise” of the night life and the erotica venues of go-go bars, it is there but if you also need the peace of the gulf waters and a fishing pole on a quiet stretch of sand, that can be found as well.

Even after all these years and its hyper growth over the past decade, it is still ridiculously cheap. Even as I type these notes, I am doing so from a decent hotel room costing me only 3,100 baht a month or about $75 USD.

You might think that this has to be a real hole in the wall, but it isn’t as this particular “apartment” has cable TV, hot water, sink, balcony, fan, frig and is large and decently furnished. Combine that with the pool and driving range and its closeness to the air-con bus station on Sukumvit (Main/High Street) and Pattaya Nua (North Road) to Bangkok, it makes life quite pleasant for either living or visiting the area.

Although things seem to change and construction is everywhere, nothing really does. Buildings come down and buildings go up. Relationships end and relationships begin but in all this, it seems to be the same perpetual cast of characters.

If you walk into the infamous TQ (Tahitiquian Queen) on Beach Road for an afternoon happy hour which goes from 5-6 PM, you will see someone you know from before, either socially or in business. Pictures of locals smile down from you on the wall while some dancer, who you happened to have a bought a drink for from 2 years before will immediately come over to you and snuggle next to you, knowing just like a cat, if she purrs the right noise, she will get her fur stroked and hopefully that ever important drink ticket that she will quickly stick into the top of her ever present go-go boot. The game never changes, only the faces.

You could go and visit another bar you once hung out at and will most probably find the Thai girlfriend or wife and her ex-pat lover have broken apart, with him either headed back to his homeland, licking his wounds, far lighter in his wallet (if there still is one) or maybe having had the ability to somehow break away and start his own bar with another Thai “business partner”. She most probably will still have the bar he paid for and is now set for life, as was the plan from the beginning. Cynical? Yes. Reality? Very real.

There are so many men who come to Thailand for the first time and Pattaya in particular, who thing they have found their nirvana on earth. In some ways they are right as many if not most are misfits from their own cultures and societies, which is not a bad thing for in Thailand even though you won’t fit in, you don’t stick out.

You can be armless, legless, fat, bald, short, ugly, old or young, it makes no difference. It does however makes all the difference in the world if you are poor. It also makes a difference in the color of your skin as Thai’s view dark as bad. That is the reason they always make efforts to protect themselves from the sun, go fully clothed swimming and skin whitening products are everywhere. I won’t say they are racist but they are definitely more predisposed to individuals with fair skin and hair. That is just a fact.

Kratie, Cambodia: The Mekong, Dolphins and Temples

2004-09-06T23:32:00.000+07:00

The Mysterious Mekong Dolphins, Amazing Ancient Temples and the Mighty Mekong

Part 2

It was looking like the thunderstorm was moving in on us from the north so after a few more photos, we piled into the Toyota just as it started to gently rain and headed south, backtracking our way back to Kratie Town along the banks of the Mekong.
As we made our way south, we made a quick stop at another beautiful, wooden temple where I once again took a few photos. It was all closed up however with the entrance gate closed and locked so I had to settle from some shots from the street.
The road (actually a lane) was once again congested with people, vehicles, animals and pets even in spite of the fact that it was starting to rain harder and harder as light turned into dusk. I was in the front seat during this leg with Phanna in the back, straddling the opening between the two front passengers as we discussed in great detail the Cambodian education system.
Although I have experienced it first hand having been a teacher in both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap as well as having taught courses at both language schools and universities, I did not agree with some institutions policies of allowing students to attend class as late as they wanted with students not even reporting to class until at least 15-45 minutes after it had started. It seems here in Cambodia, all too often, once a degree has been paid for, that somehow precludes the actual necessity to go to class and learn what is being taught. In my opinion, not the best way to assist in a country's development or show a student what is expected after graduation.
After a few more stops along the way to chat with friends, we eventually enter town and get out of the car across the street from the Red Sun Falling Restaurant which turns out to be the only Barang (foreign) owned bar in town.
Al from Sharkys in Phnom Penh had told me to make sure I visited the place so after saying thanks and goodbye, I crossed the street with Phanna and we set ourselves down on 2 of the 4 bar stools that were in front of the bar.
The proprietor of the establishment is a young guy named "Joe" from Chicago in the good ole U.S. of A. As I was writing this article, I wanted to try his "special" posted to the entrance ways' chalk board as well as have a couple of cold beers.
Joe was friendly enough and filled us in on his personal history and the hows and whys of him coming to Kratie. Also told us about some of the local expats which seemed to number a dozen or so and were all involved with one NGO (Non-Governmental Organization) or another.
The special arrived and it was a pretty decent pasta dish, with salad and some garlic bread, all for 7,000 Riel (less than $2). Not bad I thought. Not bad at all.
Over the next couple of hours we talked about numerous things including the growing number of travelers through Kratie on their way north and south on the Mekong from Laos. Joe stated that at the height of the tourist season that 60-70 folks passed through the ferry terminal here and many chose to stay for at least a night or two before continuing on their journey. With very nice accommodations with large rooms being available for $3 a night, not exactly over taxing on a backpacker's budget. (Kratie however is NOT the place to use the Internet as prices are between $4-7 an hour compared to Phnom Penh's .50 an hour!)
It got to be around 9PM and I felt it best we head home back to Phannas and join his family for a bit. Grabbing a motorcycle taxi we arrived back at Phanna's home where everyone is preparing to go to sleep. A bed has been made up for me in the front living room area which is quite comfortable and after a bit more conversation, we all called it a day and went to our separate beds. It was only moments later I was fast asleep.
DAY 2 - Down the Mekong
The day woke with the noise of the traffic outside and the crowing of the ever present roosters. Even in the "wilds" of Phnom Penh, awakening to sounds of occasional rooster crows and the occasional automatic weapons fire seems to be quite normal. Today however, all I hear here in Kratie, are chickens and cars.
It is early and I don't even realize just how early until I am out of bed getting dressed and putting on my watch. I guess 5:30 AM isn't too early to start the day's adventures and with that thought in mind, I am soon outside, pacing around the area in front of the house and along the graveled street.
After Phanna's mother fixes the family some breakfast and me some tea, there is several long exchanges again with Phanna's father about the development of the province. Phanna's father speaks very little English as being a well educated and an older Khmer, he learned French. Phanna however does an excellent job of relaying our conversation and I learn many more interesting things.
Time is pushing on however and there is a lot to see before we catch the 10:30 high-speed ferry towards Phnom Penh. With this in mind, we set off by foot as Phanna's sister is out and about with their motorbike. She soon catches up with us however and even though she is some distance from their house, turns the bike over to us and we leave her standing on the street next to the Mekong. Seemed a bit odd that we didn't offer to take her back to the house....
Phanna and I are than taken up with the area along the Mekong and its many old French Colonial buildings, wats and wooden pagodas. There is also an area just south of town on the dirt lane closest to the river that has more Vietnamese than Khmer but although it is a bit seedy, the view along the shore is quite beautiful and only a couple of minutes through this area leads us to another beautiful wooden pagoda.
Wat Roka Kandal is a well preserved pagoda dating from the 18th or early 19th century located right next to the banks of the Mekong. It has traditional decorations and is of wooden construction and the information inside state that it is the only one of its type in Cambodia.
A German NGO has helped with the Pagoda's reconstruction and maintenance and inside now there is a local arts and crafts shop.
I was really taken with the beauty of the columns and the views through the surrounding grounds through the beautifully framed windows. After a bit of shopping picking out things for friends back in Phnom Penh, Phanna and I got back on the motorbike and headed once again south along the wide, picturesque streets with their numerous traditional, wooden framed homes.

It has now gotten to the time where we need to start thinking of catching the ferry home to Phnom Penh so we head back north to the central part of town and the ferry docks.
After spending a bit of time in the local market and after grabbing a bite to eat in a restaurant across the street from the docks, we head back to Phanna's house where we return the family's Honda and say our goodbyes.

Phanna's family with wonderful smiles and waves say goodbye to us as we catch a motorcycle taxi to the docks.
A couple of minutes later we pulled up to what was obviously a developing throng of people waiting to catch the various ferries that seemed to be heading out in the next few minutes. As it was only 10 AM and the expected departure time was 10:30, I took a quick hike around the block, snapping some more photos of both buildings and people.
I returned a few moments later, and it seemed the dock had swelled to it was in fact now occupying the riverfront street, with packages, bundles, construction material and food stuffs appearing from everywhere.
As I had been told the boat would be appearing from the north on its way down from the Laos border with Cambodia, I kept an eye in that direction to make sure I caught it as it neared the dock. I wasn't however prepared for the site that was to come into view and as it turned from the main channel and headed towards the shore, as it seemed that it would capsize at any moment.
As I stared in disbelief at the "express" ferry I could only imagine what the slow boat might look like. Was this really going to be the vessel that was to take me and Phanna down the Mekong?
As I had already purchase my $6 ticket (negotiated down from $7) and Phanna his (Khmer price of 15,000 Riel or $3.75), we obviously had no choice as we needed to get back to Phnom Penh and unless we waited for a weekday, the boat probably wouldn't be any less crowded.

To Chan Thel and Phanna at the Kratie Municipal Dock
After saying our farewells to Phanna's friend who is also an English teacher and part-time tour guide in Kratie, we boarded the boat, crawling our way along the port side cat-walk only inches from the water. As few people had left the heavily laden craft, we had to go back as far as where the engine's exhaust stacks rose from out of the engine room where we climbed up onto the roof which for the remainder of our journey served as our outpost on the Mekong.

It is hard to see the boat under the sea of humanity boarding the ferry.
As we departed Kratie port and set out down the Mekong, it wasn't long before we were moving along at a pretty good clip, far faster than anything else we came across.
Although everything along the journey was interesting, including the numerous stops along the shore to load and unload passengers and cargo, what was particularly interesting early on in the trip was the mid-channel docking at noon with another express boat coming up the Mekong. Done smoothly and quickly, if you hadn't been watching the bow (front) of the boat you probably wouldn't have noticed it happening.

Mekong Express boats docking in mid-channel.
What was also interesting to watch was the young girl walking along the very narrow "catwalk" of the boat selling oranges as it was hurling full-speed down the Mekong. What made me wonder of the longevity of her career was the fact that she chose to neither tie herself off to anything or hold onto what rail there was. Her faith in the boat's buoyancy or the captain's capability or maybe just Buddha was pretty amazing....
At 1PM we had gone as far south as Steang Trong where you notice steep cliffs on the western bank of the river. It was only a half hour later we arrived Kompong Cham, crossing under the huge Japanese bridge spanning the waters of this mighty river.
After a bit of negotiating ($10 for the rear seat), we found ourselves a taxi and were soon winding our way out of the port taxi area and onto the road south to Phnom Penh. At 3:30 PM we passed the Chroy Chang Var Taxi Station just to the east of another Japanese bridge that spans the Mekong in Phnom Penh and were soon once again where we started, the Crystal Net Internet Cafe on Sisowath Quay.

Kratie, Cambodia: Where Civilization Ends and the Adventure Begins!

2004-09-06T23:30:00.000+07:00

The Mysterious Mekong Dolphins, Amazing Ancient Temples and the Mighty Mekong!
Part 1

My friend Phanna and I decided to head back to his hometown of Kratie (pronounced Kratchey) to visit his family and find and photograph the rare and mysterious freshwater Mekong Dolphins.

Leaving from the riverfront in Phnom Penh at 8AM, we soon wound our way through the weekend traffic exiting the city and headed north along the Tonle Sap River. Crammed into the proverbial Cambodian Toyota Camry taxi with seven others ($35-40 per taxi for the trip from Phnom Penh to Kratie), I was allocated the space in the front seat jammed against the door, setting on my feet as there wasn't enough room for both Phanna and myself to set on the seat and also allow space for the driver to shift gears during the more treacherous and traffic laden parts of the journey.
For the next 5 hours, with my upper torso more outside the cab than inside we dodged in and out of traffic, honking the horn constantly at the never ending streaming obstacles of humanity, animals and vehicles. To put it mildly, a rented taxi jammed with seven other brave souls is probably not for the faint of heart as the first hour of the trip is a constant game of playing chicken and is probably better travelled with your eyes closed and fast asleep!
As I chose to keep mine open (since I was hanging out the window anyway), the 1st of the inevitable southeast Asian traffic accident appeared only a half an hour later with a motorbike lying on its side and a young woman laying in the arms of another woman next to it, crying and sobbing.
Passing this scene we continued north and at 09:30 AM made the first of several stops, this one at a very crowded restaurant. After a 15 minute break during which I had some soup and tea, we turned east on Highway 7, headed towards Kompong Cham. At 10:20, nearly two and a half hours after leaving Phnom Penh, we started over the new Japanese built bridge and were crossing the Mighty Mekong.
As many times as I have seen and travelled on this river, it has never failed to leave me in awe and this time it is no different, for as we climb quickly into the sky on the bridge, the river beneath you seems to dominate everything for as far as you can see, spreading itself to what I estimated to be over a kilometre and a half wide and running north and south for as far as the eye can see.
It is now September, the height of the rainy season and the river is full and straining its banks. The current is wicket; rushing towards Vietnam at speeds that require most barges, ferries and other vessels to hug the shore lines in their efforts to stay out of the fastest parts of the river and make some progress against the torrid current.
Most people don't really understand the size and power of this river. Here in Cambodia however they do as it is the only place in the world where another large and powerful river, the Tonle Sap, has its own southerly flow reversed at the confluence of the two rivers in Phnom Penh due to the shear power and strength of the Mekong River's waters rushing to Vietnam, the Mekong Delta and the South China Sea.
During this period as the levels of the Mekong rise, the Tonle Sap is backed up and the river reverses direction and starts flowing northwest with the lake enlarging from 2,500 square kilometers to over 13,000 square kilometers with the depth increasing from 2.2 meters to over 10 meters.
It now isn't long before we exit Kompong Cham and the road improves dramatically as the next leg of the journey has been rebuilt with the assistance of an Asian Development Bank loan and quite frankly, they have done a damn good job as the road is smooth and more importantly, very wide and straight.
Along this section, I start to notice new tree farms around almost every bend, laid out in perfectly straight lines that go on for hectares and hectares. As this region in past years has been a target of massive logging operations and pulp and paper mills, it is refreshing to see an effort to replenish what nature once gave us.
I do notice however numerous trucks still filled with logs either setting along the highway or travelling in various directions. It is obvious to anyone but a blind person that logging is still an economic reality and seems to be still occurring on a rather large scale although supposedly outlawed some years ago. Maybe someone has a special permit?
I also take note that the soil here is obviously very fertile and the vegetation very lush and thick. This is quite a contrast to the land in and around the temples of Angkor and the town of Siem Reap which is difficult to impossible to grow anything on and during the dry season becomes incredibly hard and baked, seeming to turn almost into stone.
After a couple more stops along the way to let the obviously pregnant woman passenger in the rear seat to throw up and to fuel up (and throw up again), we pull into Kratie town at 1:20 PM, which quite frankly does not leave one with a terribly wonderful great impression as the buildings are drab and the road turns to dust and rock again. This however is the wrong impression as the town turns out to be a wonderful, quaint backwater that reminds me in many ways of Nong Khai in Thailand (that sets across the Mekong from the capital of Laos, Vientiane).With only a couple minutes more, we are pulling up in front of Phanna's parent's home and they quickly greet us with smiles and hugs.
Panna's father turns out to be a very fascinating and extremely well educated man who has served in various capacities in the region including being directors of the World Food Program and the Kratie Province Rural Development Agency. It isn't long before maps are flying out of drawers and I am getting a briefing on plans for the development and potential for the province.
It seems the local officials think that the economic salvation for the province after the "legal" demise of the logging industry is agriculture, specifically dairy farming. A map that I now have shows me 6 massive tracks of land to the east of the Mekong and to the east and north of Kratie. The area encompasses over 34,000 hectares of land and lies approximately 20 kilometres east and north of Krati bordering areas along the Prek Te, Kampi and Prek Kakol Rivers. Land prices are discussed and quite honestly, I find the prices mentioned to be amazingly reasonable given their location, fertility, proximity to Vietnam as well as river transport via the Mekong.
After a spot of late lunch, Phanna and I head off with his brother in law in (you guessed it) another Toyota Camry. It seems that this model from Toyota is everywhere in Cambodia and in reality it is, from the beaches of Sihoukville to the trashy border town of Poi Pet, to the temples of Angkor, they are in fact everywhere! Just why or how has to be a story in itself and it is hard to imagine where Toyota could have this model somewhere else on earth as they had to have all been shipped to Cambodia!
This time however, with 5 fewer people, the trip north out of Kratie is quite pleasant and with the air-conditioning on, free of dust and the usually inevitable grime that accumulates on your skin and face from a Cambodian road trip.
Our destination for this late afternoon trip is the extremely rare and very famous Mekong River Dolphins. Although no one knows where this species came from or how they managed to come so far up the Mekong (and adapt themselves from salt water to fresh water), they are in fact here and living in several different pods (groups) in the waters of the Mekong.
The one pod we are headed for is called the "Kampi Pod" and seems to frequent where the Kampi and Mekong Rivers come together. It seems this past season (2004), with the Mekong being the lowest it has been in over three decades, that the population has declined from the estimated 100 or so earlier in the year to less than 60 (according to some locals) due to having to move from their normal feeding grounds into unfamiliar and dangerous waters where they were caught up in nets or injured/killed by river vessels.
This species of dolphin is more formally named the "Irrawaddy" and has a rounded head with no beak, and a flexible neck. They can vary in color from dark and light blue- grey, to pale blue. It is grouped as an oceanic dolphin, although some dolphins may live in the freshwater of rivers all their life (such as the Ganges in India). This species of dolphin has a small triangular shaped dorsal fin with a rounded tip, below the centre of the back , and is a slow swimmer - usually moving in small groups. Irrawaddy dolphins are very similar to the shape of the Beluga (toothed whale), and to the shape of the Finless Porpoise with its blunt round head, so they are sometimes difficult to tell apart. They can have up to 40 teeth on their upper jaw, and 36 teeth on the lower jaw.
Adult Irrawaddy dolphins can grow to between 2.1 and 2.6 metres long, with new-borns about 1m in length and a fully grown Irrawaddy dolphin weighing between 90 and 150 kg. At birth they are as much as 12kg.
Although some travel guides indicate that the best time to see them is between the months of December to April, Phanna and I have no problem finding them immediately as Phanna had for many years been a tour guide while growing up and was intimately familiar with this area of the Mekong, the dolphins and their feeding grounds. After renting a boat and driver for $6 at the dock just south of the Kampi River, within minutes at least 2 if not more, broke the surface next to our small boat and with regularity over the next half hour we observed them as our young boat handler managed to keep us on "station" with the engine off, just meters from the entrance to the Kampi River. (See the bottom of this article for more information concerning this wonderful creatures.)
As we wait for them to surface and as I make an effort to catch them with my Nokia digital camera, we discuss the area, its past, development and growth. It is than that I learn that a proposal is on the table and is being seriously considered to build a dam in the very spot where we are watching these creatures feed and play.
Although I am usually very much a realist and know here in Asia feeding people and providing them food, water and power will always override other environmental concerns (as well as the destruction of rare animal species), I secretly hope that this is one dam that isn't built.
As I watch a massive thunderstorm build to the north, we can hear the rolling thunder from its anger and I am wondering if it and its rains will head our way. After watching it and the winds for a few more minutes, I determine that it most probably will not, at least for the next hour or so and after getting some more photos of fishermen and the their nets along the river banks, we turn the boat south and head for the parking area and dock where Phanna's brother in law is awaiting us.
After piling into the car again, I am surprised to find we turn left (north away from town) out of the lot onto the narrow, heavily potted lane that serves as the main road north and south along the Mekong. After another 30 minutes or so and after passing through another village where the road makes a Y and forks off to the northeast, we stay on the section that parallels the banks of the Mekong and soon enter an area that has a very large, modern Wat (temple/pagoda) within easy view of the road and the Mekong. It is only after pulling into this area that I understand just how large it is and find out it is the largest such Wat in Cambodia, having exactly 100 large columns supporting its roof.
The Wat of a Hundred Columns

Wat Trasor Muoy Roi as it is formally called, is famed for its excellent wall paintings as well as the stupa dedicated to the Princess Nucheat Khatr Vorpheak who legend says was killed by a crocodile. Although very beautiful, I became much more mesmerized by a much smaller and far older wooden Pagoda setting on the grounds several hundred meters further inland and to the east.
As we pulled under a beautiful tree that dominates the area where the older Wat still stands, we noticed that no one was around except for one lone monk picking up palm branches. It had been raining earlier and the ground around the temple was wet and muddy so we had to step carefully as we made our way inside.
After taking my shoes off, I was immediately drawn to a large setting Buddha which dominated the pagoda but was additionally surprised and fascinated to find a panoramic collection of hand-painted murals that rested on the walls above the height of the doors and windows. They were spectacular!
As I snapped at least one photo of each, I listened to the translation from Phanna of the monk's description and history of the murals and the pagoda itself. I was told that the temple's name was "Preak Heak Kok" which means "high ground" as the ground on which it set was higher than the surrounding area and was never flooded by the Mekong when it overflowed its banks. Articles from others however refer to it as "Wat Preah Vihear Kuk" so I am not exactly sure what its proper name is.
I also listened to several stories about its history and was told it dates back to 1142 AD when the original stone temple was built on the same spot. The resident monk told us that the wooden temple that existed now was 346 years old but once again this seems to be in conflict with other writers who have indicated it to be over 700 years old. I am more inclined to believe the younger age myself.
Stories were also relayed about its role in the recent fighting in 1983 when a major battle took place on the surrounding grounds. Supposedly three monks were killed and several buildings were destroyed, one of which still has the concrete steps leading up to an obviously empty space, pot marked with the battle's scares.
There was also another story concerning this very old and beautiful pagoda that was equally sad in that as recent as 1998 it was looted of many of its precious artifacts by a high ranking government official who was supposedly taking the items to Phnom Penh for safe keeping with the intent of putting them on display in the National Museum. According to the monk however, the items might be "safe keeping" but they are nowhere to be found in the National Museum. Go figure.... Part 1 - Part 2 - Part 3

Babes, Booze and Bullshit - On the road around Cambodia

2004-08-21T09:42:00.000+07:00

Babes, Booze and Bullshit

Siem Reap to Phnom Penh - Day 1, Thursday
Up this morning to take a shower and than head south to the coast for another overland journey through the monsoon soaked landscape of Cambodia but the morning starts off with a bit of an unusual "twist" as I watch two peering eyes and a mop of hair stare at me in the mirror from over the wall of the adjoining shower stall. At 6AM in the morning, even by SE Asian standards, this is a bit much and I tell the fucker to bugger off. Management informs me a bit later after relating the event that it was most probably the "ladyboy" who had just moved in two days before. I just shake my head, grab my rucksack and call out to a moto driver and head for the bus to Phnom Penh.

My chosen mode of transportation, the Mekong Express Bus is a bit more expensive ($6 instead of $4) but experience has taught me that the extra $2 is more than worth it as the bus is a real coach with a toilet and wide, comfortable seats with the trip to Phnom Penh taking about an hour less due to only a single stop. This can be especially nice if the previous evening was spent in the bars and bumping along Cambodian roads is not your ideal method of transportation or some of the last tasty dishes you had have started to disagree with you. Combined with a bottle of water, a decent box meal consisting of a sandwich and some pastries, it seems a no brainer to me.

Siem Reap in late July and early August is experiencing extensive days of overcast skies and afternoon monsoon rains. The temperatures are however quite pleasant and for me, even a fan isn't necessary at night.

It is so funny as I verbally fence with the touts hanging around the "bus station" (actually more a stop) as everyone always wants to know "where you go?". This line will always be a prelude to somehow figuring out how they can make a commission from you on your destination's end. They do however choke when you reply, "I'm going to hell!". That usually leaves them confused and unsure what to say as the conversation has left the pre-learnt script.

Just last evening I was talking with Rose, a teacher from New Zealand in from Dubai about her experiences around the temples in the past three days as well as her impression of the Khmer guide she had.

As an English teacher, she became more interested in his scripted descriptions and inability to answer any of her "off script" questions. Having talked with many tourists to the temples before, it is obvious that these guys are educated on what to say but have no real deep knowledge of their own culture or history. Sad but true...

As the actual Mekong Express Bus Station is at the Central Market (next to the SBC Bank and DHL office), a moto driver arrives from the bus company and a minute later he drops me off at the waiting buses. As I wait to board, I buy a large loaf of fresh French bread for a 1,000 riel and stare up the street to the next corner where the massive Sokha Angkor Resort is being built.

Having just been to the opening of their new 5-star resort in Sihanoukville in April and knowing of their ownership of the concession for the temples of Angkor ($20 a day for 1,000,000 tourists-you do the math!), these people have some big plans for the future. Combine that with their activities with the Ariston Group's new airport and golf and beach resort in Sihanoukville, all these big boys are betting on Cambodian tourism in a big way. I just hope political events underway in Cambodia (King's abdication likely to happen) keep things on track for everyone...
Anyway. As I stare down at the $6 ticket in my hand, it reminds of the consistent transportation pricing that seems to be in place across the country which equals about $1 an hour. It seems to make no difference whether you hire a tuk-tuk, a cyclo or a bus for a 6 hour bus ride, it works out to about a $1 an hour. Funny how that works.

We board the bus and I am hoping for an on-time departure but 07:30 comes and goes. Two French girls board the bus and they finally realize they are on the wrong bus (I knew they were even before they got on) and we have to wait while they find their backpacks in the cargo compartment and unload their gear. After this huge production that only the French could undertake, we finally make our way out of Siem Reap and at 07:45 head south out of town.

The road is pretty much paved all the way to Phnom Penh now. Other than some ongoing bridge work and some short gaps through a village or two, we have finally achieved the unachievable, a continuously paved road from Siem Reap in the north of Cambodia to Sihanoukville on the southern coast!

As we leave the city and breach into the countryside, I can't help but be in awe of the beauty of it all. Everything is so incredibly green but not just your normal, everyday "green". No, it can only be described as "luminous" it is so brilliant. Ponds that were only caked holes of dry mud are now filled with water and alive with life. Ducks swimming, children playing and floating water Lillis with amazing flowers with colors of pink and red. Actually, this part of Cambodia reminds me in many way of the topology of southern Florida in the United States, both in vegetation and landscape.

At just around 9AM after crossing the very ancient bridge of Nagas at 08:45, I hear a dull "thud" and at once people in the front of the bus are rising from their seats and turning around to look behind the bus. The driver starts to slow down a bit and as he does so, 4 other buses in our "convoy" wiz past us.

I am trying to ascertain what has happened but whatever it is, it becomes obvious the driver isn't stopping and we begin to accelerate again. It was only later at the restaurant that the Irish lady behind me asked the bus attendant what happened and we learned we had hit a motorcycle with two people on it and they had swerved off the road into a ditch. Driving Rule #1 in Asia is if involved in an accident and you can still drive, keep on driving and don't look back, especially here in Cambodia as you don't know if the person in the car you just hit (or who hit you) has a weapon and what the likely hood of it being used on you is (actually quite probable in Phnom Penh ...).

As we cross the large river and bridge into the town which marks Stong District, we are constantly having to slow for wandering cattle and numerous pony carts on the road. This now slows our progress southward more than the previously missing bridges and numerous potholes.

With the start of August, rice harvest is underway and with that, the spreading of seeds for another crop. Water levels are high everywhere which is a welcomed blessing from the harshness of May's heat and drought and low/non-existent water levels.

As we approach a segment of the Tonle Sap, the bus start to slow down and with a few "chugs" lurches to a stop. As I stare out the window however and think to myself it there's a place I have to be broken down, this isn't so bad as the waters are only a few meters away and their is plenty of shade.

The driver however leaps out of the bus and with a few wrenches crawls under my side of the bus only to reappear a few minutes later. Whatever had to be fixed is apparently fixed and we are once again winging our way southward to Phnom Penh.
At 10AM after crossing yet another large river and bridge we make the mandatory Mekong Express Bus stop at the "Arunas Restaurant". Having done this many times before I know this isn't the cheapest nor fastest way to get fed and immediately head back towards the market we have just passed and find the food vendor I always eat with. For 2,000 riel my large plate of rice is filled with some delicious selections from the pots on the table. A moment later a glass with ice arrives and I pour some Khmer tea into the glass. Not bad for .50.

We continue south a half hour later and with no further incidents make our way down the narrow road that enters into Phnom Penh. Traffic congestion is intense and the buses' horn is forever sounding as we pass around every form of transportation known to man.

We do make the mandatory stop at the "taxi station" just north of town where you will see a sign for the "Cambodian Naval Headquarters". It wasn't that long ago this was the place where you had to leave the bus and grab a taxi into town as the police were demanding a fee from the bus companies to enter the city and this being Cambodia, the bus companies refused to pay it and just dumped their passengers outside the city. Fortunately, at least for now, the police are still there but the bus (with paying passengers) continue on into the city across the Tonle Sap River and large "Japanese Bridge".

Another thing that makes Mekong Express Bus better for me as it terminates on the waterfront within walking distance of one of my (and many others) water holes called "Mikeys".

Mikey's rooms are full this particular day (it is also a hotel with 7 really nice rooms upstairs) so I decide to keep it on the cheap and head back towards the bus station and turn up Street 110 to my favorite Indian Restaurant, "Chi Cha", which is also a guest house with some amazingly cheap rooms ($4 with a bathroom and fan) given its proximity to Sisoway Quay (riverfront) and the bars where I hang out.
I receive a warm greeting from the owner, a smile from the woman who serves the meals and after checking into my normal room, drop my bags and head back for the boys (and girls) at Mikeys. Like in the movie Casablanca where Captain Louis "Louie" Renault (Claude Rains) orders his police to "round up the usual suspects", Mikeys has once again "rounded them up" as well.

Day One of the adventure had started off a bit weird with the peeping tom incident, running motorcycles off the road and now, just after ordering my first beer, I started seeing elephants! Jesus, I thought, what next?

It seemed the 5 o'clock elephant from Wat Phnom was a bit early today due to the light drizzle. I really don't mind seeing elephants as I drink, I really only start to get worried when they're pink and start flying by. Believe you me however, these days do exist in Cambodia!

Peter was there (the new Partner with Doug at Mikeys) and after a bit of conversation, we agreed we would hook up again at the Rose Bar around 7:30PM. Y was also there as well.

It wasn't long before Y and I were talking flying again as Y is a 737/727 "driver", or if you prefer to give him a lot of credit, some might say "pilot". Having once cruised the skies of a couple of continents myself, it is always great to hook up with another kindred soul and tell tons of lies.

I only took a few minutes and once again, I was trying to help setup an airline and recover a stolen aircraft now located in a "secret" hangar in a "secret" area deep in the wilds of Africa. I was also trying to maintain a conversation about Uncle Jack's Texas chili cookout the next day. Damn, I hadn't even had two beers yet and already I was trying to recover stolen aircraft, set up an airline, watch elephants stroll by and plan the next day's events around some Texas Chili....yawn....just another boring day in Phnom Penh.

Well, to liven things up a bit, I finally managed to get off my bar stool and headed back to my $2 a night "villa", grab the mandatory shower to wash the grime of the day's journey off and make a madd dash over to the "Rose Bar" on Street 104, just down from Wat Phnom.

As I entered the establishment a bit late from the agreed upon time of 7:30 PM, it appeared Peter had started without me as a slightly "pissed" (drunk) Peter was awaiting my presence with a lovely "Rose girl" snuggled up to him.
After profusely apologizing for being later, the conversation quickly took on a more intellectual tone than the previous conversations about airlines, aircraft and chili and we started to discuss the finer points of why the local girls are so hairy and they never shave. Actually, this is something that had escaped my attention and I could only guess as to the true reasons. Looking at Peter, I could only ask, "Is it because they can't afford razors?"

As Peter stroked the young lady's shapely and bare thigh (it was getting barer as his hand moved her skirt farther north), he indicated he was actually becoming quite fond of hairy knees. I thereupon told him if he touched mine I would punch him...

I also noticed Ms. Rose this evening (hard not to as I always have my eyes glued to her when she is in the bar) as she was wearing the most amazing thong panties one can envision (and I can envision a lot of things). She was wearing a pair of jeans that she had obviously got into a tub of water with as that is the only way they could be that tight and there was no doubt about the color, design or lack of material to the thong she was wearing for today's was a very skimpy, design with nothing but a silky, white leaf connecting the back of the thong to the strings heading in various directions around here derriere. Oh my Buddha!!! I start to sweat when I see this woman!

As I had more intellectual pursuits to follow and it was getting really hot inside the Rose Bar (had someone turned on the heat?), I parted company with Peter and indicated we would hook up the next day in the afternoon at Uncle Jack's chili cookout at Mikeys. From the looks of things, Peter had other plans for the evening and they looked pretty damn good!

I went outside and as I waited for a motorcycle, I saw a that the new bar across the street from Rose was lively and made a mental note to come back a bit later and give it a whirl.

The motorcycle driver I got was either drunk or couldn't drive, or both. I almost hopped off but as we only had to go along the waterfront to the Riverside, I closed my eyes and prayed to Buddha. Buddha took care of me once again and after forking over 1,000 riel to the young entrepreneur, I strolled into another favorite place, DV8 (Get it...DEVIATE.)

Aaahhhh....young Barry was there in regal fashion; stuffing some form of meat into his mouth as he greeted me, wearing a slightly too small DV8 t-shirt (or is that because his Buddha belly is getting bigger?) and wearing some form of canvas trousers with holes in the crouch. Aaahhhh...yessssss....your typical up and coming, entrepreneurial proprietor of one of the finer "gentlemen's club" in Phnom Penh.

I've known Barry and his lovely bride pretty much since they started to make their mark on the Phnom Penh bar scene. Great kids actually and they have done an amazing job of turning nothing into something. Each time I return there is something new or something added to. Today he showed me his new selection of spirits and a few new additions to the furniture...but Barry, what about the girls? What's new there?

Actually Barry's ladies are always pretty and charming (obvious Barry isn't training them) and are always willing to please your every desire ("for a fee, Ugarte, for a fee..."). Personally, I have found Barry's ladies to be some of the nicer ladies in town with the hassle factor at "zero" . Hard to say that about other establishments like Sharky or Martini.

We talked about what has been happening since my last jaunt down from Siem Reap two months ago. It seems he is trying to expand his operation and take the building next door as well as start a guesthouse. Seemed like a great idea to me...
Also found out the Expat Star at Wat Phnom Circle had renamed itself to "Coyote Ugly", and had an ownership re-shuffle. From my past experiences there, neither surprised me and the name actually seemed more appropriate...

Gossiped about the other bars, owners and businesses a bit and than decided to hop on his motorbike to take a mini-tour of some of the new or relocated clubs.
First place we pulled up in front of was a new bar called "Memphis". Rather stark exterior and the interior wasn't much different. It was obvious someone had been to some dark and dingy music club in Soho or Memphis, TN and was trying to mirror the feel. With a few musical instruments propped up on the wall and a handful of customers plopped on bar stools, I listened to the woman singing along with the band.
As I nursed the $1.50 Angkor beer, the music I was listening to sounded pretty good and her voice even better. I even thought it was good enough to clap after each rendition.

I hadn't been there long when another acquaintance walked in with a friend of his. Mr. Andrew is another reason ex-pats come and stay here in Cambodia; teaching.
Andrew came up from Aussie land to take the helm of a monster English school known commonly as "ACE" or more technically correct, the "Australia Centre for Education". A legend in their own time. With the title of "Director of Studies", I guess he had a lot on his plate there.

Competition amongst the English schools and many of the teachers is legendary and territorial rights being the rule of the day. ACE is pretty much at the top of the "heap" with wages that are actually quite reasonable. They even pay on time! (What a concept!)

But hell, let's leave the school and teaching crap for another day....and what about the girls??!! Oh yeah...almost forgot as this article is about "Babes, Booze and Billiards"...oooppps , I meant "Bullshit"!

After finishing the beer and listening to a handful of rather decent sounds, we plopped onto the bike again and tore off for the "New Martini", located 100 meters from the Chinese Embassy off of Mao Tse Toung Blvd. (I wonder which China is in that Embassy?)

The "new one", like the "old one", takes a bit of effort to get to from the waterfront. Personally, other than some fresh paint, a few stalls that looked like they might last the season and a dance floor much smaller than before, it looked like someone had lifted the old bar up and placed it down in a new location. I'm not really a Martini guy, but many like it.

The main "bar" is more a courtyard than a bar. In Thailand, I would refer to the actual place as a "beer garden" which is surrounded by food stalls and smaller bars.
The courtyard itself has the mandatory tables and chairs and in Martini's case, a large, 120 inch screen TV located behind the stage. There use to be a live band at the old Martini's but since this is Thursday night, only music videos are playing. It seems the live bands are reserved for Friday and Saturday nights only.

In Martini's advertising they always use the expression, "Lonely, bored, hungry? We have everything you need!" . Well for me this evening I wasn't all that lonely nor hungry but I was damn thirsty! Funny they don't mention that?

If you are lonely however, the reason for Martini's existence is girls!!! They are everywhere! There are short ones, fat ones, skinny ones, tall ones, pretty ones, ugly ones, sweet ones and down right mean ones! They are just everywhere...including dancing by themselves in the "disco" trying to look as sultry, or mean, or pretty, or sweet...depending on what they think you want after you start eyeing them. If you approach them for a "dance", you will hopefully have a wad of freshly minted US $20 dollar bills in your wallet. Now that would be heaven on earth!

After watching the evening's festivities unfold, Barry begins chatting with numerous individuals which the owner and proprietor of a gentlemen's club in Phnom Penh would be expected to know. One individual was quite generous buying several rounds of drinks for both us and others that joined the conversation. It was getting late however and as I had had a very long day to say the least, so with fond farewell to the cute looking female security guard protecting our motorcycle, we motored our way back home....but wait!!! Another bar we have never seen before!

As we turn around in the street and head back for the sign indicating the "New Whisky" bar (their spelling, not mine), we pull up in front and there are obviously some nice looking ladies standing behind the bar, all dressed in what I would refer to as "Candy Cane" tops. Sort of reminded me of something we once called in the States, "Candy Stripers", which were young girls that volunteered in hospitals. Damn, am I really that old??!!

Well shit, I am and they aren't, so what's a guy to do? Guess we need to belly up to the bar and find out.

Midnight has now come and gone (with me going home anytime soon becoming less and less) and it was very obvious as we started to drink our beers and chat up the young ladies that the Khmer fellow to our left talking with the Barang (foreigner) was over his limit for drinks for the evening. As Khmers have a difficult time handling anything more than one, it was anyone's guess how much this young lad had consumed or how long he had been there.

It was also obvious his English was great and he was gay as a trivet. The Barang seemed amused by the Khmer's rantings and ravings while Barry and I instead focused our attention on the young ladies behind the bar in the tight fitting, bumble-bee tops. It also became obvious that the older woman at the end of the bar with her head in her hand and elbow on the bar was the owner. She even made an effort to greet us.

Her business card indicated she was a "Mrs." (so I guess she belonged to someone) and was known as "Chetana", the manager of some type of travel company and "Business Services". From the looks around the bar and the girls, I wondered just what kind of "services" she was providing to "businesses"? In the States we would have called it "Monkey Business"...

Ok. That was enough so we pay our bill, hop back on the bike and with little traffic on Sisoway Quay roar up Street 104 (Rose Bar) but instead of heading to the left, we enter the establishment on the right, "Zanzibar".

Zanzibar is a tad difficult to explain but if you have been to the Rose Bar across the street, it is modeled after it on a much smaller scale but looses something in the downscaling. As is typical throughout Asia, copy what you can, do it next door to what you copied and charge less for the product that has been copied....all a business model obviously being employed here with the Zanzibar.

I will say this however about this Zanzibar, it is a hell of a lot classier than the bar with the same namesake in Siem Reap. Actually, in Siem Reap there is also a Martinis as well and for my money, Phnom Penh's establishments are far better.
As Barry and I made our way down to the end of the bar for a seat, his wife calls and is checking on his whereabouts. I must say I find this rather humorous as he lives and works in a "gentlemen's club" so what could he possibly do here that he couldn't do there?

Anyway, it is obvious he can't convince her he is at the Zanzibar so he hands the phone to one of the ladies to have her tell his wife where he is at. I'm thinking this is rather strange as well as there is nothing in the bar that can't be bought for $20 and I'm not talking about the paintings on the wall. Are some gentlemen's clubs OK and some not OK? hmmmm

During all this I have walked to the rear of the establishment and noticed a table of men, most of whom I know. One was a recent arrival from Phuket, Thailand where he had worked as a Food and Beverage manager in a 5-star resort. I had met him some months before in Siem Reap and and offered him my Phnom Penh apartment when I was giving it up.
He did take it and only two night later witnessed a wicked firefight between the police and a couple of young guys who were armed with AK-47s. As the pursuit made its way from the riverfront, it turned up the street behind the post office (where the apartment is) and with bullets ricocheting off the house, he watched the two kids who were making a stand be gunned down (dead) by the police. So much for me telling him my apartment was in a safe and decent neighborhood in Phnom Penh.
The other two at the table I knew were recent arrivals to Phnom Penh as well. One being with the US Embassy and the other making his way in Phnom Penh as an "IT and Web consultant". Thinking to myself this was a rather eclectic group with some pretty diverse backgrounds; I wondered what was the topic of conversation?
After a few greetings, Barry had by now convinced his wife that he was where he "should be" and we finally set down and as always, ordered another drink. As is always required at such moments for new "customers", a young lady joins me...but not Barry as they know he is "off limits".

The lady that joins me isn't really that pretty and it is getting rather late. She also has an expression on here face that tells the world she is tired and wants to go home. Trying to make the best of the situation and make it a bit more pleasant, I put my arm around her and she immediately places her head on my shoulder. I gently start stroking her right arm and a small smile returns to her face. I guess in life, sometimes simple is good.

As we set there talking about this and that, particularly this new bar and its clientele, Andrew (from the Memphis Bar earlier) and his friend stroll in. (I'm starting to wonder what his wife is thinking about all this....) We once again exchange greetings and agree that we will inform them of our next destination with a laugh.

The time has definitely come to head back for the "villa" so after paying our bill, Barry takes me back to Chi Cha. Obviously, as with all guest houses, they have locked their steel doors long ago, so after a bit of persistent pounding, a tired and sleepy Indian opens the gates and I finally manage to end Day 1 of my journey around Cambodia.

....more to come.........

Sihanoukville's Freedom Hotel Grand Opening Party

2004-08-02T09:52:00.000+07:00

The Freedom Hotel and Dance Bar opened its doors officially on Sunday night the 1st of August with a rather well received Opening Party.

Although Sihanoukville in the last couple of weeks in July experiences rather wet days and nights, (with Saturday evening no exception), the moon above the clouds was full and hundreds were out to enjoy the free kegs of beer and tables of food.

Having arrived earlier in the day I was able to have some conversations with the new proprietors and staff and enjoyed talking with both the owners and the new Khymer controller "John" and one of the girl bartenders, Sophie.

The owners are both from Germany; Jonnie from Berlin and Stefen (Steve) from Munich. Combined with Stefen's lovely Thai wife Joy and an amazing staff whose fluency in English was astounding, the stage had been set for what turned out to be a pretty fun evening from the looks of the karaoke singing that was going on as well as the pool tables filled with couples intent on showing who was the better.
As the night progressed and the crowds increased to over 200, it started to become a "who's who" of Sihanoukville ex-pats, entrepreneurs, bar owners and guests. Now for those who have been to Sihaoukville and "made the rounds" this can be a very interesting group to say the least.

Tanya from the MASH Melting Pot was there with a couple of friends, one pretty young with floppy ears and the other a lovely lady working as a teacher in Korea.
The floppy eared friend was a new addition to the MASH Melting Pot's collection and was a rather handsome puppy named "Elvis" . As you can see from the picture, Elvis looks nothing like his namesake but from the looks of his paws, might be just as big. I had written an article earlier in the year called "I saw Elvis in Sihanoukville" which now means he seems to be popping up everywhere!

That reminds that Ted and his lovely wife also dropped in with Ted making a mad dash to the buffet table and Seyna smiling here lovely smile.

Ted and his new partner Roger have just opened a new restaurant and bar on main street across from the Oasis Hotel and G-Day Mate Bar. Although their place has been open for a month, it still has no sign or name on it so I'll just refer to it as Ted and Roger's "No Name Bar"!

Martin also showed up for the festivities and as he had been kind enough to lend me his camera for these photos (mine got snagged in Siem Reap), I had to thank him profusely as well as make his bar runs for another pint of Anchor! Tough price to pay but since I was headed there myself, not so terrible.
Martin is an old Asian hand having worked for 6 years in Malaysia before transferring up to Sihanoukville to take the helm of running the ship that will become the new O'chhue Teal (Ochheuteal) Golf and Beach Resort opening in late 2005.

Geoff was also there along with some rather lovely ladies. Geoff is the manager of the new Sihanoukville Regional Airport that had a "soft" opening" in April of this year (2004).

Geoff is one of those guys that seems to know everyone who is anyone and I guess as manager of a regional airport, something of a prerequisite for the position.

Bert from the Angkor Arms from around the corner was also attending and seemed to be really enjoying himself. Along with the mandatory pints of beer, he managed to sing a few karaoke songs as well on the large screen video CD music screen. I always like to see Bert and have always made the Angkor Arms my first stop after my arrival from Phnom Penh on the bus. I think now however it might be my second, after first heading to the Freedom Bar (it is closer to the bus station! ha!)

Besides selling beer, Sophie was busy selling her tickets to the "Lucky Wheel Jackpot" which happens each Friday night. After all guests get a chance to purchase three tickets for $1, the drums roll and the music stops and exactly at 11:00 PM, the drawing for that week's prize happens.

After a ticket is selected, a giant wheel gets spun in which the lucky winner has three turns to land on his number to collect his prize. Although the prize was $200 on opening night, it unfortunately wasn't claimed as the magic number wasn't landed on so the prize increased to $290 for the following Friday's draw.

Pierre and Alaine from the Peak Casino and Hotel managed to take a bit of time off from their ever increasing jobs here in Cambodia, with Pierre showing up with a very lovely lady. Both gentlemen are old hands in Asia (originally from Belgium) with Pierre having spent the last 13 years in Pattaya and Alaine 15 years in Phuket. I must also say they got good taste in cars as the Lincoln Continental parked at the front entrance looked pretty comfortable....

An Afternoon Swim at Angkor's Western Baray

2004-07-02T09:55:00.000+07:00

After several days of exhausting tours of the temples of Angkor, I often suggest to people I meet that they take a leisurely bike ride to the Western Baray for a morning or afternoon of swimming, lounging and relaxing.

Only 45 minutes northwest of Siem Reap by bike, the Western Baray can be reached on the next road past the airport that turns north.

The tree-lined lane that leads to the Baray is easy to find as there is a sign that shows the Paradise Resort just before the road and a sign pointing to the "Western Baray" in English. After the 30 minute ride to this point, another 15 minutes will find you are the base of the 8km dike and small dam.

Modern facilities can be found here and if a toilet is required, locals can make use of them for 500 riel while foreigners once again have to pay the inflated price of 2,000 riel.

If you climb the small hill from this point you come upon the waters of the Baray stretching several kilometers each way to your right and left or east and west. In the center of the half filled reservoir is an island and small temple.

Aloing the southern flank of the water are numerous hammocks, mats, and umbrellas with Khmers willing and able to provide you a nice massage, a cool drink or an inner tube for floating in the very warm waters.

There is a very narrow, sandy beach leading into soft muddy waters that although not clear due to constant rains is unpolluted.

Built without a doubt over the course of two reigns, the artificial reservoir called the "clear water Baray" by the Khmer, or the Western Baray by foreign visitors, is a testament to work achieved during the 2nd half of the 11th century under the reign of Udayadityavarman II.

Stretching 8m by 2.2 km, it is the largest Baray known to have been built during the Khmer Empire. At the middle of the Baray is found an island where the monument which once had a superb bronze statue of the Reclining Vishnu, which is today exhibited in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

In the middle of the island, the attentive viewer will recognize the shape of a hollow or reversed linga, that is to say, a linga which impregnates the water, making it fertile and thus causing all the rice fields and meadows over which it spreads to be fecund.

Like the Baphuon, a monument of the same style and from the same era, the sculpted scene on the Western entrance of the Mebon are preserved in a sequence of squares.

Thailand to Cambodia Border Crossings - April and June 2004

2004-06-16T10:16:00.000+07:00

Koh Kong - Hat Lek - Aranyaprathet - Poi Pet - Prum - Pong Nam Ron
Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville by Bus -
4 Hours and $4.00
The G.S.T. Express Bus Station window near the central market in Phnom Penh.
Having a few days off, I once again decided to head back to Pattaya, Thailand via the overland and water route whose first leg takes me from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville. Although it is possible to make it to the Thai border via this route in one day from Phnom Penh, I had opted to sleep in and instead caught the 12:30 GST Express bus from their station behind the Shell Gas Station near the central market in Phnom Penh.

The ticket costs the normal $4.00 and after fending off the newspaper and sunglass vendors, I boarded the bus. We left 10 minutes late at 12:40 (instead of 12:30) and twenty minutes later we were still fighting our way out of the city when the air conditioning went off. Hatches and windows got opened but fortunately for me I had selected a seat next to a window that opened.

We hit the first toll booth at 13:05 and from there on, the road was decent and the traffic reasonably light. The landscape through this first leg can only be described as bleak and colorless but cruising along at 70 mph or so, we were managing to put some kilometers on fairly quickly.

At 14:00 we hit a light rain shower which is highly unusual for this time of the year but I interpret this as a good omen for the rest of the trip. Shortly after this we had the mandatory lunch stop and being a bit hungry, opted to set down and have some rice and vegetables for 2,500 Riel. Not bad considering that is just a tad over 50 cents. At 14:30 we pull out of the Cambodian version of a rest stop/restaurant and are once again making our way south to Sihanoukville.
The trip remained uneventful, the road smooth and at 16:30, only 4 hours after leaving Phnom Penh, we pulled into the bus station in Sihanoukville. This event however now requires one to undergo the mandatory barrage of moto drivers soliciting the bus patrons business. As usual, I blow these guys off and head out on my own.
Although the bus drops you off in Sihanoukville in a 'bus station' type area, in reality the true bus station for this company is located a few blocks away across the street from the Angkor Arms, a great and long-time watering hole for ex-pats and weary travelers. I mention this as this is where you can rent a motorbike by the day instead of being hit every time with a $1 moto charge (which is highway robbery!). Although the $5 a day charge from GTS is more than one would pay in Thailand, I find it reasonable considering the alternative.

If you opt to head straight for your hotel or guesthouse, expect at least a $1 charge. Some of these guys will try to hot you hard so make sure the fee is worked out before you leave.

If you aren't quite sure where you want to stay and want to explore a bit first, I would recommend heading to the north end of Occheaceal Beach which is commonly known as Serendipity Beach. Here at the end of a dusty and rutted road you will find a couple of places to have a cold drink, a beach chair to set on and shade trees to hide you from the sun. It is a good place to start.....

You can also find a decent description of the hotels and guesthouses on this beach on the Sihanoukville home page. http://www.cambodianonline.net/homesihanoukville.htm

See a story with photos about Serendipity Beach at http://www.cambodianonline.net/sihrelvisstroy.htm

Sihanoukville to Koh Kong by Boat - 3 Hours 45 Minutes and $15.00
Please note: Reports in late May and early June 2004 indicated very rough seas using this method of travel. Although very pleasant normally, during the monsoon season these hydrofoils which are designed for inland waters can make this a very unpleasant journey.

My adopted moto driver, Mr. Pok meets me at Uncle Bob's 4 room guest house on the far end of Serendipity Beach at 11:00, an hour before the supposed departure time of the ferry.

It surprises me how far it actually is to the ferry dock but after a short sidetrip to the railway station, we pass into the newly constructed Hun Sen Port. A long wooden pier leads out to our first stop, an immigration shack where an official looks at my passport and writes my name into a ledger with the others traveling that day. Our next stop is of course the restaurant on the pier where I once again have a bit of rice and some vegetables along with a beer for myself and Mr. Pok. He has already bought my ticket for me ($15.00) and I go ahead and pay him for this here. He of course is getting a commission for buying the ticket for me so I say nothing and let him make the couple of bucks off me.

At noon I head down the dock and board what are obviously Russian made hydrofoils that I have ridden all over the world. At 12:15 we push back out of the dock and are shortly up to speed with the bow riding out of the water on its skies.

After arriving at the ferry port of Koh Kong at 16:00, throngs of moto drivers were waiting on the dock and immediately leaped onto the boat as we came along side. A couple of guys grabbed me and I told them to get their hands off me. After scanning the group closest to me, I selected a young moto driver with a bright green t-shirt after his offer to take me to the border for half the price of the others. This would have been a $1 instead of $2 but after the 10 kilometer ride to the border's immigration post across the channel and long, low bridge, he demanded $2 instead of the agreed upon $1. As I was tired and hot and had already been on the road for most of the day, I let him have the $2 after changing money with a female money changer who showed the moment he indicated he had no change. Of course, she gave me my change in Thai Baht and shortchanged me 20 baht but was gone in a flash before I could even say anything. Seems everyone was working some angle or another.

Photo of Thai immigration post at Hat Lek. Posts are now open until 8PM instead of the former 5PM.

Getting stamped out and stamped into Thailand went uneventful and actually was rather civilized on the Thai side for the first time in a long time. I wonder if a 30% drop in tourism due to the Muslim terrorism in the southern provinces have anything to do with this? hmmmmm.....

Anyway. Went right across the road and found some guys lounging around several mini-buses who seemed quite uninterested in me the lone traveler and a single, small rucksack. I did notice a sign indicating these were buses to Trat and they left quite frequently. Since I was the first there, I chose the front seat next to the driver and handed over the required 100 baht for the 1 hour trip to Trat. After boarding a few more backpackers from the ferry trip, we headed out at 16:45, actually a few minutes earlier than the time indicated on the sign of 16:55.
I caught a sign along the road that said it was 75 kilometers to Trat but this was after we had already come 10 kilometers or so. At a small town called Khlong Yai, we got off the main road and entered the town to pick up someone who was obviously a female friend of the driver. After that, we soon hit the first of what turned into three military and police checkpoints, all within 15 minutes of the border point. Why they were so close to each other and why they needed three is beyond me....
For the first time, they actually stopped the vehicle and opened the doors to look inside. At the checkpoint near the border at Poi Pet they are actually entering the larger buses now and asking to see IDs and passports, although I wasn't asked for mine at any time.

At 6PM we enter Trat and I immediately try to find transportation to the Pattaya area. The only thing that was even getting remotely close to Pattaya or Rayong at this time in the evening was a bus leaving a small bus station across the street from where the mini-bus had stopped. Although it departed at 7PM, it was heading direct to Bangkok (300 kilometers away) and the closest I could get to Pattaya would be their stop in Chonburi. As I had had enough for one day, I opted to share a taxi/pickup truck with a young Japanese traveler from Yokahami. There was no flexibility in the price so we agreed to split the 1,500 Baht fee.
The trip the rest of the way went pretty much uneventful except for the driver trying to take a shortcut to Pattaya and not dropping me off on the way in Ban Chang, about 30 minutes south of Pattaya. I had to finally tell him he was not getting paid unless he took me there and after a 20 minute detour, at 21:30 I finally arrived at my destination; nearly 3 hours after leaving Trat.

On the Road to Aranyaprathet/Poi Pet and Siem Reap

I got up early and checked out of the Diana Resort which is directly across the street (Pattaya Nua/North Road) from the express bus station to Mor Chit and Ekkami in Bangkok. Diana is a decent place to stay if you are traveling and using the buses as the rooms are clean and large with both air-conditioning and hot water for only 450 Baht. Additionally, they also have a very nice pool and a driving range but the food leaves a lot ot be desired but overall not a bad place to cool down from days on the road around southeast Asia.

Anyway, as I am heading east to Aranyaprathet (what a mouth full that word is), I am headed this time to Mor Chit (or as some ex-pats say, 'more shit') as that is where the 'express buses' leave for eastern Thailand. This trip however had no express in any meaning of the word!

After paying the 90 Baht for the ticket to Mor Chit, we leave Pattaya at 07:40 and arrive at the bus terminal at Mor Chit at 10:00 AM...pretty much on time.
After a bit of fumbling around trying to find the ticket window for the bus trip eastward (I seldom use this terminal), I finally found the right window which was labeled number 31. After paying the required 180 Baht, I was given both my ticket, a plastic cup of water and a small cake...how nice I thought!

The bus left at 10:35 for what was suppose to me a four and a half hour 'EXPRESS' bus trip to the border town of Aranyaprathet, but in reality turned into the bus trip from hell and was probably the second worse bus trip I had ever taken (except for the 24 hour trip I took on a bus from eastern Turkey to Istanbul while setting on the back row with a seat that would not lean back).

As I soon found out this was going to be a bus trip for students heading back to their towns and villages for the coming Thai Songkra holiday. It seemed we made endless stops along the way with the bus full way beyond capacity with the aisle literally so full that people were standing side by side in the aisle all the way from the front of the bus to the rear.

As I had a lady and her son next to my seat (he was setting on her lap), they were crowding me to the left. The people in the aisle were crowding from the right and I literally had to set sideways for hours as a lady and her son were setting on the arm rest that was on the aisle. It was incredibly hot as well as the air conditioning couldn't keep up with the number of humans inside the enclosed bus,
To make matters even worse, a couple of Irish 'gentlemen' were setting in the two seats across the aisle from me and were getting pickeled on large bottles of Singha as the journey progressed. The older of the two was cutting large farts that to put it mildly was embarrassing as a foreigner.

To top this even further, after a short break at a bus station near our destination after most everyone had gotten off the bus to stretch their legs (we had lost many of the aisle passengers by now), we re-boarded the bus and once again I reached for my small black notebook (my journal and weeks worth of notes) that had been sticking out of a pocket in my rucksack to make a few notes.....only to notice it was missing.

hmmmmm...I thought. Where did it go? I didn't think to much about it at first as I was pretty tired and hot and felt it had maybe slid out under the seat or maybe I had absentmindly put it back in the rucksack. Either way it was on the bus and I would find it...or so I thought.

I did however begin to search a bit harder after a half hour or so and when it became obvious I did not have it and it wasn't under the seat, I started to ask the Thais in front and behind me. The girl setting in front of me pointed to the farting and drunken Irishmen and after asking him several times in the most polite way possible (he pretended to ignore me which indicated he knew where it was), he suddenly remembered he had 'found it' and placed it into his small bag from which he started to remove it.

hmmmmmmm......once again. I thanked him profusely for 'finding it' for me and than had to listen to his diatribe about living in Thailand and the Thais. As I just didn't want to engage this individual in any form of conversation or any overt act of friendship, I let him talk and I just listened. Rule number 1 for me however had once again been proven, "you don't have to worry about the locals, it is the foreigners you got to watch like a hawk!!!"

We finally reached the bus terminal at Aranyaprathet and I immediately grabbed a motorcycle to the border after declining an invitation to to share a Tuk Tuk with the Irish 'gentlemen' as I didn't feel like having anything else ripped off from me. The price of 40 Baht seemed pretty reasonable for what I knew was about an 8-10 kilometer ride to the border and the immigration station.

June 2004 Update: The road from Poipet to Siem Reap is still a rough and wild ride although the road between Siem Reap and Phnom Penh is now pavement for 4 of the approximately 6 hours. Unfortunately coming in from Poipet has, is and will most probably be for some time to come a very trying experience.....sorry!

The Thai/Cambodian Border and the Road to Siem Reap

The walk across the border back into Cambodia was the easiest it has ever been with Thai immigration (departure) not having a single person in line, with this time me not receiving the third degree as I had the previous time before. Arriving at 16:00 might have had something to do with it as well I guess, or maybe things are just mellowing out a bit with tourism being off so radically (presently down 30% according to the Bangkok Post in March 2004).

Anyway, as I had already obtained a one year, multiple-entry visa in Phnom Penh for Cambodia from Lucky's Motorcycle Shop on Monivong, I didn't need to get into the visa line for a Cambodian Visa and instead strolled on into the shack that had a single immigration officer stamping visitors into the Kingdom of Cambodia.
Although there was no-one in line except for two monks, the guy was busily stamping hundreds of Thai passports with Cambodian entry stamps. During this 20 minute wait (while he finished this Herculean task), I struck up a conversation with one of the monks who was just returning from a 3-year stay in Burma while studying for his degree in Buddhism and English.

His English was excellent and his story was fascinating as he went on to tell me about the school there, his multi-national classmates and about his return to his Wat in Phnom Penh. What was so interesting was he had a business card to give me showing his Wat and a phone number where he could be reached in Phnom Penh!
After parting ways as he was going to stay overnight in Poi Pet until he was able to catch the early morning (06:30 AM) bus to Phnom Penh, I got my 'indefinite' entry stamp and charged out into the masses of humanity, insanity and moto drivers of Poi Pet.

Although not as bad in some ways as it has been in past years (see this article from 2001), you are still confronted and most newcomers overwhelmed with the touts and humanity coming at you from all directions. As a tired and weary traveler, it can be daunting enough to make you want to run back across the Thai border and forget your plans to see Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor....but please don't!
On this particular passage across the border however, I had already determined there were no more buses heading in any direction so it was either an evening in the filth of Poi Pet, a taxi to Siem Reap or one to Phnom Penh....so what was it going to be?
I opted for a taxi solution and entered the fray of finding one and settling on the price. What is normally suppose to happen is the price will be settled on at $20 as this was the going rate for a taxi to these destinations in the past. I however kept getting confronted with the price of 1,500 Baht which I strongly indicated was not acceptable and said I would only pay 1,000 Baht.... tops! One driver eventually agreed to this price and after telling him to wait, I went back to the immigration line looking for individuals to share the taxi with me to Siem Reap.

I immediately came upon three Brits who were weary and overwhelmed with the situation. Both the girls and the guy looked terrified from what was happening around them but I quickly tried to explain what was happening and offered my taxi to them. They agreed somewhat hesitantly at first but as he kept asking others about a taxi, he soon found out that my 1,000 Baht was far better than the other offers of 1,500 Baht.

It was during this long, slow push through the crowd that a 'police officer' intercepted me and pointing to the patch on his shoulder that said 'tourist police' (...with me thinking "when the hell did Cambodia get tourist police?"), he asked me what I was paying for my taxi.

As incredulous as I could sound (which I actually was), I indicated to him I wasn't aware the 'tourist police' were in the taxi cab business and it was none of his business....and kept pushing myself and those following me through the mass of humanity to the taxi I had waiting.

We got to the car and I hurriedly tried to get their backpacks into the trunk and everyone into the car but this 'cop' was playing junk yard dog with me. He insisted one of the girls roll down her window in the back and tried to intimidate her. When I told her to roll her window back up, he went around to the driver's side and was obviously asking who the driver was and than wrote down his odometer mileage. It was only after this the 'police officer' gave up and we were able to head out of the filth of humanity and buildings that is known as Poi Pet....which is a horrible first impression for travelers going to the amazing beauty of Siem Reap and Angkor. Sad, so very sad.....

It seems the Thai mafia has most probably taken control of the border taxis in Poi Pet as it is exactly 1,500 Baht that Thais charge between cities. Examples include Bangkok Airport to Pattaya (2 hours) or my recent trip from Trat to Pattaya (3 hours). Rumors indicate that the situation with the moto drivers in Sihaounkville are getting as bad as well, demanding $1 instead of a more reasonable sum of 1,000-2,000 Riel (.24-.50 cents-Cambodian's only have to pay 500 Riel for the same trip-$1 is 8 times higher than the local rate).

Anyway, we were finally able to blow out of Poi Pet and with a couple of hours of light left, headed east to Sisophon, and further east to the sanity and beauty of Siem Reap and Angkor.

See a story with photos about crossing this border during Christmas 2003 for the journey to Siem Reap. http://www.cambodianonline.net/articles200301.htm

The Palin Border Crossing or more officially known as 'Pong Nam Ron' (Thai) and 'Prum' (Cmabodian).

A couple of British friends of mine in Phnom Penh told me about their recent (April 2004) trip across the border at Pong Nam Ron/Prum into Cambodia from Thailand.
It seems this is a new option but very rudimentary. Like the other border points, it is also now open to 8PM as well and is being used by some who are heading for casinos in Cambodia here and the precious stones found in the area. It also seems to be an alternative crossing point for visitors going between Koh Chang/Trat and Siem Reap.

You can get there from Chonburi for only 500 Baht and than journey takes a little over an hour. The Thai name of the border is 'Pong Nam Run' according to the stamp in the passports and on the Cambodian side it is called 'Prum'. Although the two points are walkable they are a bit of a distance apart and motos can take you from one to the other for only 5 Baht. They indicated to me you can get a Cambodian entry visa here but a Thai visa is not possible. This is unconfirmed at this point.
You can catch a taxi from the Cambodian side to Battambang for $20 but there are also lots of moto drivers waiting there as well. The road as of April 2004 is still in very bad condition but from Battambang to Sisophon is entirely paved and in good condition. There is an 8AM bus from Battambang to Sisophon as well and with water levels being so incredibly low at the moment (April 2004), proabably a better option than the boat if you are heading to Siem Reap and the temples at Angkor. The Smoking Pot in Battambang was also mentioned as a decent restaurant at a reasonable price as well as the Balcony Bar as a place to cool down with a beer or cocktail.
They also mentioned that Palin is still a "Khmer Rouge' stronghold and that brother 'number 3' still lives there. Caesar's Casino is also on the border and one little known fact is that a mini-bus runs between it and the 1,000 Baht a night PK Hotel in downtown Chonburi. Even if you are not headed to the casino, you can catch this bus for only a 100 Baht

Sihanoukville, Cambodia's New Airport Opening

2004-04-13T09:57:00.000+07:00

Sihanoukville Airport - 2004

April 12, 2004 - Sihanoukville Airport's re-opening took place without a hitch just before the Khmer New Year's celebration. As the 48-passenger, Russian made AN-24 made a picture perfect landing and taxied to the new and very modern terminal building, the assembled guests and dignitaries made their way out to the tarmac to greet those flying down from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville for the historical event.

Prior to the landing, a ceremony was held in which the Monks blessed the airport and said prayers for the success and happiness of everyone involved. After this important event and arrival of the VIPs from Phnom Penh, another ceremony was held in the main terminal facility for guests numbering over 100.

His Excellency, Mr. Pok Sam Ell, Secretary of State for the State Secretariat of Civil Aviation, spoke first. He was followed by Geoff Rider, the new General Manager of Sihanoukville Airport.

Mr. Rider stated that, "The new opening of the Sokha Beach Resort (a photo gallery) last Thursday which is the first International Beach Resort in Cambodia and the opening of the airport today will put Sihanoukville on the regional and international tourist map."

Mr. Rider also indicated that he expected large numbers of travelers between Siem Reap and Sihanoukville and that "as the tourism industry in Sihanoukville expands the airport will grow with the industry". He also indicated that there was additional provisions for the passenger terminal and customs and immigration services.

He also went on to mention the importance of working closely with the Sihanoukville Tourism Forum as well as local industry such as Cambrew which is the Sihanoukville brewer and bottler of Angkor and Pepsi products.

After these comments, airport guests and staff were treated to a buffet provided by Ariston Holdings, which is the group responsible for the management, maintenance and development of the new Sihanoukville Airport as well as partners in the development of the new 9-hole golf course alongside Ochheuteal Beach, Sihanoukville's most popular beach.

Airport operations are the responsibility of Ariston Holdings with the airport itself under the control of the State Secretariat of Civil Aviation (SSCA). The airport's runway is 1,300 meters long and 34 meters wide and is capable of handling both general aviation and large, multi-engine, turbo-props such as the AN-24 and ATR-72. Plans are in place to expand the runway to accommodate even larger regional jet aircraft as well.

The 5 parking slots on the 275 x 90 meter tarmac in front of the very modern terminal building will hopefully soon be used to accommodate daily air operations from the capital of Phnom Penh and the resorts and temples of Siem Reap. Airport air traffic control is to be provided by Cambodia's C.A.T.S. - Cambodian Air Traffic Services both from their center in Phnom Penh as well as from the control tower located on top of the new terminal.

With the 'soft opening' of the airport in April 2004, it marks the first time since 1998 that regularly scheduled air operations and charter flights are expected to begin.

I saw Elvis in Sihanoukville!

2004-04-06T10:08:00.000+07:00

One of the most popular destinations for both foreigners and locals in Sihanoukville is Occheaceal Beach and most will probably end up here after the 4 hour bus journey down from Phnom Penh. The roads along this route are actually quite good and depending on when you leave Phnom Penh (most commonly at either 7AM or 12:30 PM), may determine to some degree what kind of accommodations are available when you reach the beach as it has become a very popular destination for both foreigners and locals.

As a destination site for many Cambodians combined with the opening of the new Sihanoukville Airport before the Khmer New Year in April 2004 and the new international beach resort of Sokha Beach, the likelihood of the areas' growth is increasing everyday.

The beach itself is a very long, gently curving bay that sets between the new 9-hole golf course being built and the gulf waters. As of April 2004, 4 of the planned 9 holes have been completed with many new and very comfortable guest houses and villas lining the road leading down its southern flank with the Jasmine Hotel being near the beginning of the course. They are known for their friendly staff and and it is a great place to stay according to some of the locals.

I think most head down the dirt road that sets on the north side of the beach referred to as Serendipity Beach first looking for accommodations as there are some nice hangouts to drink, eat and relax around the numerous tables and shade trees.

As you head down this dirt road that many refer to as 'Serendipity', you first encounter several guest houses on the left, including Mohaohha (011-783-476 or 034-933-586) and Sea View Villa (034-935-555) which opened in February 2004. Wedged between these is the SKT Tour (Sokun Tour and Travel) company building (sothy2003mm@yahoo.com)A bit further down you will reach the beach and in this area you will find the 4-room beach bar called Uncle Bobs run by a young Swede named 'PJ' who has just got engaged to his Cambodian girlfriend. If you are in need of 'comfort food', Uncle Bobs has a pretty good pizza. Next to this place is a newly renovated and upgraded place called the Eden Bar and Guest House which is also located directly on the beach.

If you turn to your right and head further north along the beach, there are several more guest houses and lodges. Signs point you to the Ocean View and beside it, at the very end of where you can walk before the rocky point, Cloud 9.
If you turn left coming off the road, you will immediately see the Bungalow Bar and Restaurant as well as villa complex. Continuing on down the beach will lead you to the first of what literally had to be over a hundred small "beer bars" setting right along the beach.

In the evening this entire beach comes alive with the dancing glow of hundreds of candles placed on each bars many beach tables. Places like the Eden build small bonfires in large stone pits in front of their bars and have barbeques.
As you continue your long, curving stroll south along the beach, the shacks turn into longhouses and you start to notice signs indicating free beds. One such place as a PADI diving sign and is called the 'Dolphin Shack' whose previous owner has now established the new 8-room guest house called 'Ru's Place' just off Lion Circle.
Another place that is well known for its diving is Asia Divers run by Eric who is a really great guy. His number is 012-608-578. Roger is also working with Eric and his number is 012-439-301. This is also a PADI facility and they also run $15 all night party boats to the islands as well.

Where the shacks end you will find a wonderful little place called 'Teds' run by a Canadian/ American named (of course) TED and his very charming and lovely wife, Syna who is learning to sketch and color and from what I watched, quite talented.

Ted and one of the local neighbors who hangs out with him and his wife.
Ted is one heck of a nice guy who is originally from Montreal but grew up in Houston. In the evenings this place turns into quite the place for jams and laughter from the local expats. They will be opening a new Mexican restaurant soon and knowing the potency of Syna's margaritas, it should be a great time!
Trips to the local islands seem to round out the local day and evening's activities. Snake Island is known for its birds and monkeys while Koh Thas Island is famous for its fishing, birds and seaviews. Ta Kiev Island has snorkeling, coral and fishing and Russey Island has snorkeling and coconut trees. Ream Nah Para has a mountain view and a great beach.

Bokar Mountain is about 2 hours away and seems to be a stop for most staying more than a few days. It is about 10 kilometers out of Kampot and has a $5 entrance fee and for an additional $5, you can stay the night. Some of the local ex-pats take food and other items up to the Monks that live there which is greatly appreciated.
Other ex-pat haunts in town are 8-room guest house and bar owned by the former owner of the Dolphin Shack Ru's Place, Savana and the Marlin Bar owned by Richard. Ru's Place has a big screen TV and show movies as well.

Now, if you follow the above trail, you will find Elvis in Sihanoukville! Good luck and have a great time!!!

www.cambodianonline.net/articles200411.htm for photos!

Sunday on the Mekong

2004-03-02T11:25:00.000+07:00

As I took the helm of the boat, I couldn't help but feel a bit like (Captain Willard) Martin Sheen in the Vietnam era war movie (1979) 'Apocalypse Now' as he made his way up the Mekong through Cambodia to assassinate the renegade American Green Beret, Colonel Kurtz (played by Marlon Brando). My boat however was no fast moving river patrol boat but instead a slightly listing, lumbering Mekong River ferry owned by Sophat Tours. The listing constantly to starboard was somewhat suspicious but with the bilge pumps working, I didn't give it that much thought as I was having some serious fun!

Today was the 3rd Sunday of the month so that meant a free river cruise was on Phnom Penh's social agenda, sponsored by Scott at the Jungle Bar and Grill on the riverfront Using the Jungle as our staging area and after a cold Angkor beer, at noon we headed across Sisoway Quay and walked down the now steep banks of the Tonle Sap where our vessel was awaiting us.

The Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers are now at their lowest due to it being the dry season, with some reports from upstream indicating the waters are the lowest they have been in 25 years. This however didn't keep us landlubbers and after shoving off and after a quick u-turn to pick up late arrivals, we make our way down the Tonle Sap and were soon chugging up the Mekong.

The Mekong is full of life on its banks. Some might call it enchanting. Everywhere you look you see children swimming in its waters, cattle being cooled from the heat of the tropical sun or ferries plying across the waters to the opposite bank. The pace seems slow and steady with constant waves and hellos from children as they see our boat and passengers.

On board the music gets cranked up a bit louder and ribs, burgers, hotdogs and potato salad is now being fed to the guests. I choose the ribs and without a doubt, they were the best piece of meat I have had since returning to Cambodia. The beer was cold and the tall bottles of Angkor started to fall by the wayside with conversations becoming ever more interesting as the passengers started to get to know each other.

It wasn't long before a couple on the boat were being told about the wonders of Angkor including some of the newer theories about the temple complex and its design as a celestial marker as well as a capital city of an empire from long ago. Most people just don't realize the size and complexity of what most simply call Angkor Wat . Angkor, before its collapse in the 13th century, was the largest city on earth with a population estimated at over a million inhabitants, while London at the same time had only 30,000 residents. The physical size of the city would be approximately the size of Los Angeles in the United States today.

This is a lot to take in and the conversations continued to explore some of these ideas as we started our turn back after rounding a large island setting in the middle of the channel. It was after this turn downstream that we made a stop to explore a temple and experience some more of Cambodia's charm. As you can see from the photos below, the life here was basic and simple. The path from the top of the hill that we climbed to get to the temple was long and straight, with a long segment shaded by tall trees lining each side of the path. Cattle drawn carts maneuvered around us while we walked upon some of the finest dirt I have ever seen with each footstep creating a willowy puff of dust as your shoe settled into the half inch of powder.

During this stop, children here as elsewhere in Cambodia are curious but yet shy. A smile is returned with a huge grin and often times a 'hello'. It wasn't long before a trio of pre-teens had befriended me with the oldest quickly able to say my name 'Charlie'. In these encounters, unlike what might happen next to larger tourist areas in Phnom Penh, no one ever asks for money nor is there ever any begging. It is simply wonderful children filled with curiosity and adventure.
After about a half hour stop, we re-boarded our home for the afternoon and once again were heading back towards Phnom Penh. A few times during this leg of the trip, a couple of ex-pats in a very old looking wooden 'sport boat' with a single outboard blew by us. They also looked like they were having some serious fun as well! For me, and possibly them, being on the water is an experience that I can never get enough of and if it was up to me, I would be living onboard a boat, sailing the world until the day I died.

The trip has to end however and after an uneventful rounding of the point of land where the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers converge, we are soon walking down the gangplank back once again on Sisoway Quay in Phnom Penh. Life in Cambodia is good!

Phnom Penh’s Chroy Chong Va/War Area

2004-01-02T11:34:00.000+07:00

Across the “Japanese Bridge” that heads out of town north to places such as Angkor Wat, there is an interesting area which is presently dominated by a monstrosity of a building whose construction has never been finished. (An "Exhibition Center" started by a minister no longer in power.)

Turning on the first road to the right after coming off the bridge will wrap you around until you are on a dirt road paralleling the Tonle Sap, directly across from Phnom Penh’s riverfront.

It seems after that after crossing the bridge, the area becomes predominantly Muslin as there are several Mosque along both the riverbank of the Tonle Sap and than the Mekong River, with many of the women wearing the traditional head-scarves. I found the people to be warm and friendly with some amazingly beautiful villas along what I discovered was called “Mekong River Road”.

Stopping this Sunday morning in a village, Jake and I had some rolls filled with some spicy vegetables primarily consisting of cucumbers and onions and some form of meat that I was unable to identify. It was actually so good that after the first bread roll filled with this delicacy, I ordered another 500 Riel roll and some Cambodian tea.

The tea although very clear and looking as if it is nothing more than clear, hot water is quite good and as I discovered long ago, is free with any meal you might have. I even remember ordering some tea as I waited to cross the Tonle Sap at the “Crab Ferry” and told I needed to pay nothing even though I hadn’t order anything.

If you continue on beyond what appears to be several “ends” of the road/path, you will eventually end up at a large ferry crossing for the Mekong River, which is right next to the river entrance of the “Headquarters of the Royal Cambodian Navy”.

Photo of Cambodian Naval Vessels: Ready for War! ...Not!

I was surprised to discover as I scanned the area that this is also right behind the Chroy Chang Va/War Taxi/Bus Station which is where all bus companies from Siem Reap will now dump you so they don’t have to pay the tax for crossing the bridge with passengers.

Very old and obviously in very poor (if operational )condition Royal Cambodian Navy River Boats. Just a bit downstream from this photo, I spotted two large shells (active) lying on the banks of the Mekong River.

If you choose to cross the Mekong River here, expect to pay 500 Riel for an individual and another 500 Riel for your motorbike as that is what the Cambodians pay.

A Little Bit of Sin in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

2003-12-31T11:30:00.000+07:00

There is no discussion about Cambodia or Phnom Penh that doesn't quickly shift to drugs, violence or sex. Given the recent 25 year legacy of such things, the fact that it has come so far so fast is an amazing miracle, and if one reads and believes books like "Off The Rails in Phnom Penh", seemingly impossible.

To be honest however, like everywhere else in the world, most vices can be readily obtained; you just might have to dig a bit deeper and in Cambodia today, it doesn't seem to be in "your face" like it was in years past.

In December 2003 in Cambodia, sex like everywhere else, is readily available and while exploring the many streets of the city, I noticed a rather curious place across the street from where I was walking.

It was curious in the sense that it had a 2 meter bamboo curtain standing in front of its entrance to the street and there were about half a dozen dirt bikes parked out front. (Dirt bikes are an indication that foreigners are present...)

After standing there for a minute or two studying the place and wondering....."was it what I thought it was", a large, rather heavy expat came out, got on one of the bikes and left. I than knew I was right and with my curiosity getting the better of me (as it always does), went in for a "peek".

Upon entering the establishment (it was called "Apocalypse Now"), it was obvious from the get go that this was a "short time" bar with a few foreigners setting around obviously enjoying the intimate attentions of the ladies within the dimly lit bar.

As I was honestly tired and thirsty, I plunked myself down on one of the 12 high bar stools and communicated to the bartender that I would like a beer. Speaking not a word of English to me (only French), he gave me my beer and I was also soon afforded the attention of what was a rather pretty young lass but with really terrible teeth.

She engaged me in a conversation whereupon it became obvious what services could be provided .....and doing so in really great English! As I was in this "bar" more out of curiosity than anything else, I politely declined her offers, finished my beer and continued my exploits around the city.

Along the same line but under far more "upscale conditions", you have places like the Riverside and The Jungle Bar and Grill , which just happen to be collocated next to each other down on the riverfront, or more officially known as "Sisowath Quay/Boulevard".

On the banks of the Tonle Sap River, each place maintains a "selection of hostesses" that are there to make you feel welcome. What you and her work out in this "welcoming" process is of course between you and her. There does however seem to always be some form of compensation discussed concerning her companionship for that particular evening.

Although each place is next door to the other and both seem to be catering to the expat community, they are as different as night and day.

The Riverside is rather "notorious" or probably more accurately stated, the owner is, as Andy (he is a German) seems to have quite a reputation amongst his peers in town and many stories float around as to his antics. (Note: The Riverside is located on the corner of Street 178 and Sisowath Quay.)

In one of my recent forays into the Riverside, I was very fortunate to have met a Dutchman (Robert Jan) who is working behind the bar and we managed to have some long conversations about politics and such.

The Riverside is also much larger and after you pass the pool table where you can always find an assortment of very beautiful ladies willing to play snooker with you, you will find another dimly lit bar in the back as you head back to use the restrooms. Seems this area in the evening becomes a bit more "intimate" and has some rather nice mirrors as well as a dance floor.

The Jungle Bar however is definitely an American haunt, serving an American type breakfast and reportedly the best nachos in town. Scott the owner, an American is from Philadelphia and likes to show his guests a good time! There is a snooker table upstairs, where it will once again be no problem to find some beautiful (and what I found to be a much friendlier lady than in the Riverside) companion to play a game of pool with.

It does seem however if you wish to have one of these lovely ladies accompany you from the premises that there is a fee involved. That "fee", which is called either a "bar find or fine" depending on who you ask is typically $5 USD. (A hell of a lot cheaper than a dating service in the states......)

Please note update to December 2003 article:
The Riverside no longer has hostesses.
August 2004
Mystic

Christmas in Cambodia

2003-12-26T11:38:00.000+07:00

December 18, 2003 – Thursday - Traveling to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat for Christmas
As I crossed the border into Cambodia at Poi Pet, one could not help but marvel at the amazing variations of vehicles and cargos being pulled, pushed or driven from Cambodia into Thailand. If one has ever seen the earlier movies of Mel Gibson (such as "Mad Max" and “Thunderdome”), one might be able to envision the sites one saw unfolding around them as they attempted to pass through Thai immigration into Cambodia.

On this particular morning, after waking early from my hotel in Aranyaprathet on the Thai side of the border, I managed to enter the immigration line at 07:30, only completing the exodus at 08:30 after being in line an hour; 15 minutes of which was spent with a female Thai immigration official giving me the third degree interrogation concerning my passport and my entry and exits from Thailand.
(See earlier story about Thai/Cambodian Visa Runs)

I found this whole incident absurd, as unlike many others, I always exit the country legally on or before the 90 day visa stamp limit and have never “sent” my passport across the border which has been the custom for so many years by so many expats living in Thailand.

Anyway, the good thing about this entire episode was I had a chance to meet a Cambodian who was studying in Bangkok and was returning to Phnom Penh for the Christmas holiday. She struck up a conversation with me while in line and after spending some time after finally clearing the required immigration points for both countries, she hailed me as I was roaming about trying to find transportation to Siem Reap.

As it turned out, two of her classmates were also heading home as well, but instead of Phnom Penh, they were going in the same direction as me, Siem Reap (it translates into “Siamese Defeated”). This turned out to be extremely fortunate for me and after the required price haggling for a seat in the shared Toyota Camry, (we settled on a price of 300 baht each) I started to make my way out of the chaos of this filthy border town.

We immediately started up a conversation and their knowledge of the world, its geography, politics and history astounded me. Their English was also superb and what would normally have been a boring and rough 4-5 hour trip across this part of northern Cambodia, turned into one of the more enjoyable trips of the recent past.
It wasn’t long out of Poi Pet where we were stopped by “officials”, who I determined to be some form of customs. As you can see from the photo, even though one was wearing a "uniform", my suspicion as to their true mission was highly suspect.

After going through several of the bags, they allowed us to continue our journey east across the rice patties and dirt roads of the region. (You can always tell the guys who are on the "take" or somehow think they are "bad dudes" in this part of the world as they always wear dark sunglasses....too many American movies!)

The trip east was once again fairly uneventful. I had done this trip back in May of 2003 and knew pretty much what to expect…..and it had not changed much other than a couple of bridges that were unusable in May were now at least “crossable” ...(and that word takes on another meaning here.)

As we headed for Siem Reap, which is actually the province and name of the main town that serves the temple complex of Angkor Wat, I marvel at the serenity of the country side, the pace of life here, the cleanliness of the small villages we passed along the way, the mats of rice being dried alongside the trail we traveled AND the choking dust of the journey.

When I say “dust”, it is not like the dust one normally thinks of. It is a dust that permeates even into the air conditioned Toyota and after only an hour, even with the windows closed, you have a coating on your skin and clothes that transforms itself into a substance like baked mud when water is applied. Even trying to clean your face, arms and hands from this substance with running water takes both quite a bit of water and effort.

The road to Phnom Penh from Siem Reap/Angkor Wat

As we are in a private car and not a bus (commercial bus stops are frequent and planned so that the company and driver get a commission), we stop very infrequently. As I was getting a bit hungry during the 5 hours, I pulled out a jar of super crunchy Skippy peanut butter that I always carry with me on trips as well as a small loaf of sandwich bread.

As I prepared my feast, I offered the same to each of the boys that are with me in the backset of the Toyota Camry "taxi". Each accepts readily and taking very little from the jar, spread it on each of their slices. They actually seemed to really enjoy it and this surprised me somewhat but was totally understandable later as I learned that one of them had worked in a factory making peanut butter while studying in school and that the Seven Day Adventist mission that was funding their studies in Thailand also used peanut butter as a daily supplement to their meals.

As we get closer to Siem Reap, one of the young men I am riding with invites me to his home. I considered this a real honor which I immediately accepted.
As we drew closer to town and passed the airport, we veered off the main road (it has turned to pavement now) and once again were back on a dirt road which in reality is nothing more than a dike between rice paddies.

After a bit of confusion as to where his house was (this surprised me a bit), we finally pulled down a small path and stopped in front of a simple house surrounded by his family, from the oldest to the youngest.

I was introduced to his father as well as the rest of the family. Once again, as is so typical when I travel, one of the first questions I am asked is if I am married. In Thailand I understand the reason for this question but here, I am not quite sure what the motivation is.

I was than invited to visit some of the other homes in the "estate" or "compound" or "mission". Not sure what you would call it actually but it was a place just outside of Siem Reap where on 20 hectares of land the Seven Day Adventist Church had established a mission and an orphanage.

The orphanage is called the “Wat Preah Yesu Children’s Home” and is run by an Australian couple, Tim and Wendy Maddocks. They invited me to share lunch with them, their two sons and their family that was visiting with them from Australia on what was now my 1st day back at Angkor Wat.

I had a very long conversation with Tim before the meal and we talked at length about the issues there at the orphanage; the growing of crops, raising of various types of animals and fish and about the state of the children at the school, many of which were dying from HIV/AIDs.

Apparently, only the previous week, one of the more popular children had died and this had been hard on everyone, especially so close to Christmas. I was also able to meet a couple of the younger boys who had cataracts on their eyes but who had been able to have surgery done recently which had helped restore a bit of their vision.

It seemed both Tim and Wendy had their hands full, in addition to raising their own children under such conditions. They did however seem to be doing it with vitality and dedication that would be difficult anywhere to match. If you would like to help these wonderful people and their cause out, their email is 012804017@mobitel.com.kh or you might be able to reach them by phoning them at 012-804-017 or (855) 12-804-017 internationally.

After finishing our lunch and a after a bit of probing questions from Wendy (marriage, children, why here, etc.) , I caught a ride into town with Tim on his Suzuki dirt bike (which is pretty much a requirement on these rough roads, either in the rainy or dry seasons).

After saying goodbye, I headed across the street and as I was pretty tired and in dire need of a shower to wash away the dust and dirt from the journey, I checked into the Chao Say Guest House which is located in the main part of Siem Reap and is owned by a local character named Dominique Raymackers. Although a bit pricey on a backpacker's budget compared to what you can get a little further out of town or a the Popular Guest House in town; for $8 USD a night, I got a very clean and pleasant room with fan and a bathroom with hot water...and a very pleasant welcoming smile from one of the young ladies!

After getting cleaned up, I headed out once again to find the “Paper Tiger” which is a very popular watering hole for many expats in town, one which I had frequented often back in May and early June.

As you can most probably tell from the proper name, "Le Tigre de papier”, has a heavy French influence and patronage. Bruno, the owner is French but speaks English fluently and although portending to be tired often, seems to love greeting his customers and exchanging gossip with them. Michael Bouzon is the evening manager (also a Frenchman) but converses in English as well.

Upstairs there is a large selection of used books (10,000), with a large selection in French (of course) but English as well. In the evenings, Bruno shows a movie on a large screen and the upstairs bookshop is transformed into a 20 person movie theatre! The movie is free but a minimum of one drink is required.

It was here during this first evening back that I once again ran into another fascinating couple, this time headed off to Vietnam to buy Vietnam War memorabilia which they sell on the Internet from their home in England.

December 19, 2003 – Friday - Day 2 - Siem Reap

As I was on a tight budget and was traveling alone, the Chao Say was a bit more than I needed and after a good nights rest, headed out in the early morning to get a bite to eat and explore a bit more of this incredible town.

The day was cool, with overcast, gray skies (which was not what I had expected in the middle of the dry season.) and as I continued to explore, I stopped into a restaurant for my first breakfast.

Although this first return experience was not typical, I was unfortunate in having selected a place that advertised a "Full English Breakfast" for $1.50, which sounded pretty good I thought….

As it turned out, this translated into an egg, coffee with no milk, 2 pieces of very, very burnt “bacon” (I think), a few slices of bread with no butter or jam and some pretty pathetic looking and tasting French fries. (Fortunately, my breakfast experiences improved radically as this trip continued….)

After "breakfast", I continued to walk about town and as I had only baht, I decided to change that to Cambodian Riel. Although everything is in US dollar (and I do mean everything), having “small money” in Riel makes things a bit easier. There is an exchange near the main market down from the Chao Say Guest House where I haggled with the girl on the exchange rate, finally getting 190,000 Riel for a 2,000 baht. (I was later however able to get 100,000 Riel for 1,000 baht at an exchange at the Central/New Market.)

As I walked across the river, I started exploring some of the back paths away form the "tourist market" area. I soon discovered a place that is located behind the Crocodile Farm and the next bridge on the road headed south out of town. It was called the "Fresh Air Guest House” and for $2 USD a night, you can get a clean, fairly large room (with no bathroom) or if you really want to splurge, $3 will buy you a room and a bathroom. I didn’t actually count the total number of rooms, but on the ground floor there appeared to be 10 or 12 rooms.

This was obviously the epitome of a backpacker’s hotel with drinks from the cooler taken on an honor system and paid for when you checked out. There is also an area near the front entrance with a TV, some tables, chairs, hammocks and forgotten books and magazines where people gather after their long journeys here.

Not sure how exactly you can make money on hotel rooms at $2-3 a night but I suspect the “peripherals” are how this is accomplished as both bus and boat journeys are heavily displayed here. I suspected and later verified that the $8 bus tickets to Phnom Penh can actually be had for $4 if you go and buy the ticket yourself from the bus company, with the same ticket showing a $20 price! (so it appears there is a lot of flexibility as to how much a hotel, guest house or travel agency can make from the unsuspecting tourist). Not sure about the kickback on the $25 ticket for the 5 hour boat trip to Phnom Penh but I suspect it is at least half as well. (I later confirmed at the docks in Siem Reap that it was in fact $12 for a Cambodian...)

20 December – Saturday - 17:30 Day 4

Today's sunset was a huge fireball, perfectly aligned with the section of the river looking west as I crossed the bridge back into town from walking from the Fresh Air Guest House. Absolutely stunning!

It was really a nothing day with the main events consisting of picking up a $4 USD bus ticket from the bus company (G.S.T Express) to Phnom Penh and finding a the “real locals market” on a dusty side road just south of town. It is always fun being the only foreigner in such places; the smiles, the raised eyebrows, the sparkling eyes…..

I was told by Bruno (owner of the Paper Tiger) that the best bus company in town was a very low key operation just west of the Central Market on Achamean Street where I was able to pick out and reserve my seat south with a 07:15 departure time..
(Note: Achamean Street has a huge Sokimax Gas and Service Station on the corner and is the same company which has the "concession" to sell tickets into the Angkor Wat Temple Complex).

On my way back from the bus company, I strolled around the Central Market and ended up buying a $2 USD t-shirt from a really vivacious young lady named Marina who owned one of the many newer stalls there. Her whole being was enchanting and bubbly and I found it impossible to not be her first customer of the day and give her “luck” for the remainder of that day. (Who knows if it was true or not, but it sure felt good!)
I also explored some of the stalls of the other vendors and found a nice little stall with lots of interesting used books, mostly in English. Once again there seemed to be a two-tier pricing system for the books as there was one price for Cambodians and another (higher price) for foreigners.

In walking back to the guest house to pick up some software for a friend, I came across a very loud and very large birthday party. Seems birthdays as well as weddings and funerals are all large productions here. I witnessed all three with the weddings being a very colorful production with brightly colored tents and guests and the funerals having large processions; some of which are filled with hired individuals to participate (such as entire classes of school children).

I also had a great lunch today for $1.50 consisting of a large bowl of chicken curry (Khmer Curry) and a plate of rice. Just thinking about the curry makes my mouth water and this was only the first of several times that I ate at this market restaurant downtown.

It was also interesting to note the young boys who hung out around these restaurants with their small plastic bags. Although not begging or bothering you as you ate, they would, once you were finished come to the table and take the remaining food/rice, pour it into their bags and scurry off.

There wasn’t that many actually, never numbering more than three that I saw. They did not bother me or anyone else and there seemed to have been established some form of “protocol” as to the practice. I intentionally left some rice and curry on my plate for them to have although I felt like buying the entire lot lunch….

21 December 2003 - Day 4 (already!) Sunday

Got up at 05:30 to shower and pack for the bus trip south to Phnom Penh. Although I found the weather crisp and extremely pleasant, many at the time, including the foreigners found it cold and some at the guest house were loudly complaining that they needed more blankets. Funny to see the Cambodians moving around, bundled up in large jackets, long sleeve shirts and heavy socks on their feet, stuck into their flip flops.

I also took another long walk this morning on the way to the bus company, walking from the Fresh Air Guest House with my backpack in only 25 minutes.
Daniel Jump having a snack as we cross the river by Ferry on the way to Phnom Penh.
As I board the bus and find my seat, I see another couple and a small boy board the bus as well. She is obviously Cambodian and he looks American. Even as I am thinking this, he comes back to my seat and starts up a long conversation which as the days go by during this adventure, turns into a warm friendship.

Dani as it turns out is a trained horticulturist who spent many years growing up in India with his missionary parents and who subsequently, (after getting degrees in agriculture and languages in the USA), went off to work in the US Peace Corp, living in countries from Paraguay to West Africa to Cambodia! Presently he has taken up a position as “beekeeper” with a NGO in Siem Reap where he will be both establishing hives and teaching the art of beekeeping to his Cambodian colleagues. More about him and his family later….

Note: Dani also introduced me to David Cowled who owns and runs with his wife "The Balcony", which is a very nice coffee lounge and art gallery ( www.timbrez.com ) located around the corner from the Paper Tiger.

What made this conversation so interesting was that Dave was also very interested in light aviation and had purchased an ultra-light which he now had at his home.
Dani had found out on our long, 8 hour bus trip south to Phnom Penh that I had once been a Flight Instructor and still had a keen interest in civil aviation in Southeast Asia and thought Dave and I might be able to share some ideas. He was absolutely correct as we discussed for well over an hour what was going on with civil aviation and flying in Cambodia and discussed the future possibility of setting up a flying club there. More to come on this later!

At 07:25 we left the bus company 10 minutes later than the advertised departure time of 7:15 AM. Although the company apparently won’t leave without you if you have already purchased a ticket, I found out as the trip progressed they will leave (without you!) if you are not onboard after one of the many “rest/food stops”.
As we head east and than south to Phnom Penh, after only 20 minutes the road turns into hell, and this is the way it mostly remains for the next few hours. What is funny about this is that when you ask “locals” about the road, they tell you it is “great” (Tilt!). After trying to understand this, I finally determined that it is “great” compared to what it was only a year ago. The “road” however does not really fall into that definition of the word and at best can be described as asphalt between huge and numerous potholes with “bridges” no more than loose, wooden planks more or less overtop some type of metal, wood or old stone structure.

At 08:15, we have our first stop for Breakfast where I witnessed some form of large “military convoy” whiz by in their numerous Land Rovers and other 4 wheel vehicles. Some of the vehicles appeared to contain people of some importance and other than the crash-helmeted soldiers wearing body armor, there however appeared to be no weapons of any sort (which I thought rather odd.)

"It was also at this stop where I am first introduced to a Khmer delicacy…..trays of large tarantula spiders! Hmmmmmmm
….don’t they look good!"

After leaving this first rest stop at 08:45, we continued on to Phnom Penh hitting the upper regions of Lake Tonle Sap at 10:45. Only 15 minutes later we crossed a large river and bridge and entered the town of Kompon Thom where we took our second break (from 11:00-11:40). I wandered about the market with Dani and snapped a few photos. We boarded the bus and headed south again 40 minutes after our stop.

The road from this point on is horrible as well and shakes your insides out. (Fortunately no one used the bus company provided "barf bags"!) We stopped at another area where I was a bit hungry after all this bouncing around and decided to have another simple lunch of rice and vegetables but soon discovered the outrageous sum of 3,000 Riel which is more than twice what it should have been. Oh well, should have asked before I ate it. We left this place at 14:10.

We eventually arrived in Phnom Penh later that afternoon (15:30 at the taxi stand) but as I soon discovered, we are not actually dropped off in town but before the large “Japanese” bridge that spans the point of land where the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers meet (the Chroy Chang Va/War area) .

It seems the rationale for this is that a new road tax has been instituted on buses entering and leaving the city via this route and to avoid paying this fee, the bus companies simply drop their passengers off at the Chroy Chang Va/War Taxi Station on the peninsula between the Mekong and Tonle Sap Rivers. If I had not been with Dani (who was explaining this to me), I would have been very, very confused by these events as there were no signs or explanations as to what was going on.

Dani had stayed in Phnom Penh before at the Sunday Guest House and after calling them earlier in the day, called them again whereupon they sent a car and driver to pick us up. (Seems they pickup and drop off their guests at the various bus stations.) I was booked into the $3 a night room with fan, Dani and his wife and son got a large room with TV and bathroom for $5 a night.

As it turned out, this place was actually quite nice with huge common balconies overlooking the city. The family that run this place were really quite nice with the young girl who worked as the manager taking English lessons during the evenings. I noticed this as a van pulled up one evening to pick her up and she later told me about the school and her lessons.

I also got some of my clothes washed here for a dollar a kilo and rented a bicycle for $1 a day. A young Japanese guy who is living at the guest house put a small website up for them and it can be found at www.geocities.com/sundayguesthouse .
The Sunday Guest House is easy to find on Street 141 just off Street 214 (also known as "Yugoslavia or Tito Boulevard-I call it "Embassy Row"), just past the German Embassy and the Cuban Consulate. Seems to be a popular place to stay for a wide range of nationalities and budget travelers.

22 December 2003 – Monday – Phnom Penh

A good part of this day was spent helping my new friend from Siem Reap, Dani, find and buy a digital camera. We visited the huge Canon Shop as well as Olympus and Nikon shops. Although my experiences and prejudices were more inclined towards the Olympus line, we eventually ended up with a 3 mega pixel Nikon that started off at $410 USD but after two more trips back to the store for comparison shopping, we got the owner down to $375. Bargain hard on these items and you will get a pretty reasonable discount.

I also spent part of the day with a young English chap who asked me for directions in his effort to find a language school that he had flown in from Hong Kong to start work for. Once again, a very, very interesting young man who had spent most of his life in Hong Kong or England studying. His father was a captain for Cathay Pacific and he was here to teach English while his knee recovered from an accident before he moved onto an appointment at Sandhurst.

23 December 2003 – Tuesday – Phnom Penh

With a stiff breeze blowing from the northeast and a sky filled with high, puffy white clouds, I started a four hour walkabout the city that took me up near Boeng Kak Lake, passing both the Cambodian Army Headquarters and the Ministry of Defense while walking down the conf. de la Russie Blvd., than down pass the railway station and Wat Phnom, and eventually around and into the main Post Office where I posted a letter to Germany for 2,200 Riel. This street eventually ends on the riverfront at the area where the high-speed ferries to Siem Reap are docked and boarded.
As I walked along the riverfront opposite the many 4 storied shop houses, hotels and restaurants that lined Sisowath Quay (the river boulevard), I noticed no less than 5 “For Rent” signs on 2nd, 3rd and 4th floor balconies of flats facing the Tonle Sap River.

There are no lack of places for rent but expect to pay at least $250 per month and up for anything within a few blocks of the river. I went to several "apartments" to investigate what my money would buy and at the "low end" you will get a floor in a shop house with a very odd floor plan. If you are willing to spend $650 and up, you will be able to find a more "western" setup. No matter how you look at it, prices are increasing rapidly in what will soon become a very cosmopolitan capital. (I kid you not!)

If you look towards the junction of the Tonle Sap River and the Mekong, you will see a huge “freighter’ that seems very out of place so far up the Mekong from the South China Sea. In actuality, what you are seeing is a huge casino named the “Nago Casino” that can only be reached under very tight security through the Cambodiana Hotel.

Also across the Tonle Sap River and on the peninsula that is formed by it and the Mekong River, you will notice a huge monstrosity of a building "under construction".

In actuality the construction has stopped on what was suppose to be an exhibition center. It seems that the Cambodian minister whose pet project this was when he was in power was ousted so consequently the construction stopped. (I noticed the same thing in Siem Reap.)

As I wrote these notes in my journal, I reflected on the fact that in 2 days it would be Christmas and unless you absolutely knew that, there was nothing in sight or sound to remind you that today was nearly Christmas.

My journal notes...
Sitting here on the short wall at the confluence of two large rivers, the Tonle Sap and the mighty Mekong, with my back against a flag pole and my journal and pen positioned on my lap, there seems to be an inner peace that even the people passing by respect. In reality, it is a beautiful site and as I look out over the river, I can't help but feel at peace with both myself and the world....maybe this is my gift for Christmas!

24 December 2003 - Christmas Eve

Heading to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat
(more journal notes) - I awoke way too early and after a shave and a shower, I waited for the guest house to come alive (and open their doors). Nowhere is there an item mentioning the idea of Christmas. In a way, it is a bit mind-boggling when you think how important a concept it is to us in the "west", but here, absolutely meaningless. It is Christmas Eve and I would have no idea about it unless I was keeping this journal.

I do however remember this day last year in Istanbul....it was cold and wet and a light snow was falling. I remember thinking that this was not what I expected and although I love that city and Turkey, being alone and cold on Christmas was not what I had in mind.

It was also the day after Christmas a year ago, that I walked into the airport in Istanbul, bought a ticket to Bangkok and was in a few hours later winging my way east to Thailand, spending New Years in a far more “receptive” environment, Nana Entertainment Plaza in Bangkok!

I wonder what Christmas and New Years 2004 holds for me and the world ??!!
At 06:55 we pull out of the bus station which is 100 meters from the building which serves as the Central Market and true to the word "central" is actually the epicenter of many roads and directions. (The BTS Express is right behind the Shell gas station.)

Once again we must avoid the "police bridge trolls" and head out of the city along the banks of the Tonle Sap River north to Siem Reap, this time however taking a different route out of the city than the one we entered by car from the guest house.
At 07:35, we arrive at the Prek Kdam (means crab in Khmer) Ferry Crossing, which has obviously been used for many years as there are hulks of old ferries and tugs strewn along the shore near the crossing.

We have to wait a bit which gives me a chance to grab a bit of tea. It is here that I discover that the tea I have been paying for in other places along the way is actually free to those who know. There always seems to be kettles of tea setting around these places when you arrive, all at least warm and sometimes even hot.
After a bit of a wait, we manage the crossing and head north. Two hours later at 09:25, we reached the town of Skun. (after a 09:00 "breakfast/tarantula" stop in between). At 11:00 we arrived at the town of Tang Krasang which also has a large river and bridge. (Dani indicated to me that he had spent a year here previously working as a Horticulturist Advisor for ADRA in Tang Krasang).

At 11:30 we stopped for lunch once again at Kampong Thom, leaving at 12:10. At 12:50 we passed through Stong and at 3 P.M., we finally arrived on the outskirts of Siem Reap/Angkor Wat, 8 hours after we left Phnom Penh.

I headed back to the Fresh Air Guest House and after once again washing the dust from my body, changed into some clean clothes and headed out to find something enjoyable on what is now Christmas Eve.

Fortunately, I once again discovered the Dead Fish. This is a place I had hung out before in my trip to Angkor Wat in May. Seems the same blind piano player is still there, but on this particular evening, he was signing and playing Christmas tunes! This definitely filled my spirit again and turned out to be a very lovely evening.

25 December 2003 - Siem Reap/Angkor Wat , Cambodia

Without a doubt, Christmas Day at Angkor Wat was the most amazing Christmas of my life and probably one of the more incredible days of my life. It did however begin "normally" enough with me leaving the Fresh Air Guest House early in the morning to have my glass of tea, some fresh bread and to exchange some smiles and words with Logn Sochinda who has a small roadside "cafe" between the guest house and the main road.

Logn Sochinda - A very lovely lady.
Her mother and daughter worked there as well, and as always, we spent some time with each other with this Christmas Day morning going 45 minutes, with her teaching me Khmer and me teaching her more English. Over these morning sessions, I learned she was 33 and was no longer married although the reason for this was never explained or mentioned.

Her daughter was always stealing glances at me and when I "caught her", we always exchanged big smiles. Even when I would walk by during the day, her mother or her or both would smile at me and wave.

My breakfast here was always the same; some fresh bread purchased for 500 Riel and several glasses of tea which I always paid 500 Riel for. Not exactly a western breakfast but for some reason, it was always one of the highlights of my days.
I than saw Dani coming down the path to the guest house from his home. I called out to him and he came over to the "cafe" whereupon we headed back to his family for what was to be our Christmas breakfast.

I was impressed to find when we arrived two plates of pancakes with peanut butter, maple syrup and a plate of pineapple. I also managed to get another cup to tea but it wasn't long before I was stuffed on what were probably some of the best pancakes I had ever eaten!

The rest of the morning was spent upgrading his new computer with some software I had brought with me from Thailand and taking a look at his son and daughter's older PC.

At exactly 1 PM that afternoon, we set down for our Christmas Dinner and after a short blessing, dove into huge plates of rice, vegetable curry with duck eggs, a salad made of onions, cucumbers and tomatoes and baked pork and beans. Once again, I just couldn't stop eating but the best was yet to come with each of use getting a bowl of vanilla and chocolate chip ice cream that was rather soft but delicious nonetheless. It seems refrigeration is always a problem....

After all this food and friendship, I thanked my wonderful hosts and headed back to the guest house where I laid down until 5 PM. A bit later, I collected some things that I wanted to drop off at Dani's house before my return to Thailand the next day very early.

As I approached the porch, I noticed all seemed very quiet so I placed the items on the bench in front to the door and just as I was about to leave, Dani came to the door and started to introduce me to Jake, his new part-time beekeeper assistant.
I had listened to Dani tell me before about this young man and how wonderful he was. It seems that he was working several jobs, not only assisting Dani but leading tourist on adventure tours into the "wilds" of Cambodia as well as getting ready to start his own traveler's assistance business! (A very busy man...)

Over the next few hours we talked about many things, mostly relating to business in Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. As Jake's English is extraordinary, it was easy to converse with this 26 year old man who has the intensity and knowledge of someone far older.

Jake relaxing after an evening with foreign guest. Jake can be reached in Angkor Wat at (855) 12-960-854 or via email at jakejanisa@yahoo.com

A bit later we decided to hop on his motorbike and head for the airport as I wanted to see with my own eyes which airlines were actually flying in there.

After a side trip on the way back, with the setting sun quickly ending that part of a spectacular Christmas Day, we decided to have a meal at the Central (new) Market and a bit later, I invited Jake for a beer at the Ivy Guest House where we continued our discussions about the future of Siem Reap and Cambodia.

Still on a "high" from the day's events and people, I decided to head back to the Dead Fish and finish my Christmas with a glass of merlot and a bit of Christmas music from my favorite piano player. I was also able to check my e-mail for free on 1 of their 3 computers.

After a couple of wines there, I decided to head home to the guest house, but as luck would have it, I met an American couple who were from Boulder, Colorado who were teaching English in Japan.

As we walked down the street together we decided to share a beer at the Banana Leaf across the street from The Paper Tiger. Our conversation quickly intensified and before long we were discussing some rather spiritual and new age concepts that are expressed in books such as "Fingerprints of the Gods" and "Heaven's Mirror" by Graham Hancock and "Hamlets Mill" by the Professor of History of Science at M.I.T. named Giorgio de Santillana.

Kevin and Janel (Brockman) were an extraordinary couple to say the least. If I remember correctly, he had taken degrees from the University of Colorado in both Religion and Astronomy. Janel had studied there as well and her family shared many of the same "New Age" beliefs as Kevin and his family. At 30, their knowledge of events shaping our world left me breathless. I can only hope that one day they too will come and share the knowledge and mystery of what really is encapsulated in what we call "Angkor Wat".

Once again, it being midnight and "Christmas" drawing to a "spectacular" close with the lights around us starting to slowly go out at the various cafes and restaurants, and saying our goodbyes, we headed our separate ways.

As I started my walk home, I headed down towards the all to familiar bridge that leads to my "home" now. As I approached the intersection, in the deep darkness of the night and my thoughts, I heard a large crash which I immediately knew had to be an automobile accident of some type.

As I turned the corner, sure enough, a crowd was beginning to gather around what was obviously a head-on collision between a motorcycle and sedan. It seemed both vehicles had lost the encounter as the motorcycle's front fork had been crumpled and the car's right front bumper and light had been crushed.

It seemed no one had been hurt severely but what appeared to be the motorcycle driver was stumbling around either in shock or very drunk (or both).
As I continued walking, a crowd of well over a 100 had now gathered around the scene to watch the spectacle of who would be right and who would be wrong.....and have to pay!

Have a Merry, Merry Christmas wherever you are !!!

Do and Don'ts while living in Germany:An American's Prespective

2002-12-26T12:34:00.000+07:00

DO AND DON'TS
DON'T cross a street against a green light unless you want to get screamed at by those in the east and stared at hard by those in the west....even if there are no cars in sight.
DON'T expect anything called "service" when shopping.
DO expect to wait in long lines. Even going to an international retailer such as Ikea for things for your apartment will make you wait in line for at least an hour. I am not kidding. I once waited 1 hour and 20 minutes on a Saturday afternoon. A Thursday morning wait was a little over an hour. It is ridiculous, even to the Germans who are use to it all.
DO expect delays in the east, sometimes lengthy, when taking the train. This happened way to often in my numerous trips between Berlin, Dessau and Halle. "On time" seems to be something from the past as the equipment seems to be older and in a poorer state of repair.
Ride your bike at night in Dessau without a working light, DO expect the police to jump out of the bushes onto the sidewalk/bikepath with a HALT sign stopping you for the crime of riding without a light.
DO expect little old irate men to try and run you off the bike path if you are riding on the wrong side of the street in the wrong direction (Dessau).
DO buy a Bahn Card which reduces your train fare by 50% for one year if you are going to do any traveling at all in Germany by train. Note: March 2003 Update-This is no longer a good idea because on 1 January 2003 the system was changed and the discount is now only 25% with many restrictions and new rules concerning the trains you can ride. Once again, far too many rules for most normal people. Please read a story below about how the rules changed a recent trip!
DO expect to pay outrageous fees when using their cash machines. It is referred to as GeldAutomatic and not ATMs as is common in most other parts of the world. 4-5 Euro per transaction is common.
DO expect to hear your cell or mobile phone called a "handy". Seems Germans have a really hard time saying "cellular".
DO hand over your money first before receiving your Imbiss (street fast food) ordered food as in the East they take the money first and THAN they will hand you the Doner (Turkish fast food) or Bratwurst.
DON'T even think about using the Internet on Sunday as anyplace that might have it will be closed anyway. (There are rare exceptions such as in Berlin.)
DON'T even think of coming and working in Germany if you don't smoke or those that do annoy you. Even when you politely ask people not to smoke in your apartment or while you are eating in a restaurant, most will ignore you. (I honestly think they can't process that you would ask such a thing.)
DON'T expect to meet a lot of fellow Americans. Those days are long gone and the only ones you might stumble into are in smaller places like Bamberg where there are still smaller US Army units stationed. March 2003 Update: There will be even fewer still has I beleive the US will shut down most of its remaining bases in Germany and shift them east to friendlier, pro-American countries such as the Czech Republic or Poland. Presently, the US still has 71,000 troops plus their dependents in Germany. That is no small number and has a huge ecomomic affect on their communities. As hard as it is to imagine, people here are even talking about bringing up both American commanders and President Bush on war crime charges if they invade Iraq. Perceptions here are so radically different than what most American's understand. If I was a 20 something, single American trying to make my way through the abyss here, I think I would be overwhelmed. February 2004 Update: Seems I was correct. Read the article at bottom of this column. "US plans to cut troops in Europe by a third" - Feb.3 2004
DO expect to find English spoken at Irish bars and Germans pretending to be Irish. (This can be quite funny at times.)
DO expect to hear "...because that's the way it is" often and "there is nothing we can do about it" even more often.
DO expect to pay an outrageous sum of money to use a Telecom payphone. Avoid it at all cost and try to find a overseas call shop. I found them in Halle, Erlangen, Nurnburg and most places I traveled, usually around train stations. Since December of 2001, the cards you buy from these shops will no longer work on the German Telecom phones but will work on private lines or over your "handy" (cellular/mobile phone).
DON'T expect someone's work to be done by another person while that person is gone on their one month holiday.
DON'T expect someone to answer your email during the weekends or while on holidays or for someone else to answer them while they are gone.
DO expect people to be open and friendly the farther north you go. In the south, you are an outsider and always will be. I have come to the conclusion that people are actually quite selfish and worried only about themselves. Even my German students who are from northern cities such as Hamburg indicate they have many problems in their own towns and villages as "outsiders" in their newly adopted southern homes.
DON'T expect people to speak English or make an effort to do so. Even the young with many years of English in upper class towns like Erlangen refuse to engage you in English. I have found they can write it very well but few have had the practice to speak, nor do they really wish to. March 2003 Update: Due to the building anti-American feelings here, over the past month people actually tell me to speak German (in German of course). These are the same people who I have communicated with in the past in my broken German and some English. There is a real hate building here against anything American.
DO expect to be told that you should speak German after only 4 months in the country.
DON'T expect many of your students to have any knowledge of the "outside" world no matter what their age. It seems after the cold war ended, their focus is on themselves, their friends and family. Although not unlike many/most students in the USA, it is a radical change from German students of past years.
DO expect to be told that there are 51 states in the US. This became a question I asked every class after I discovered that almost without exception, this was the answer given. Some text book obviously stated this and after that, it becomes fact! I actually have had several students along the way tell me I was wrong! (They have been told that the District of Columbia is a state and this information is actually in the German edited version of the Microsoft Encyclopedia. Can't argue against Bill I guess...isn't he always right??!!)
DO expect them to tell you about their yearly holiday but it will often be the same place, story and people year after year. They go to their compounds that have a hundred or more other Germans.
DO expect them to tell you about their gardens. They love their gardens! (Many use garden like Americans would say yard.)
DON'T expect younger people in the east to have middle names. Most won't as this was considered a religious/Christian idea and as they were good communist, they did not give their children middle names. This is what I was told in Dessau finding an entire class without middle names.
DO expect to go to work and see a sign saying "Attention English Teachers" and everything below it to be in German.
DO buy "The Guardian" (British) or the "International Herald Tribune" for English newspapers. The Guardian is probably a bit easier to use with students. The IHT is compiled from the NY Times and Washington Post.
DO expect many language schools to have only a few members of their support staff who can speak English, especially in the East.
DO expect these same schools to pay you around 12 Euro per teaching session (usually 45 to 50 minutes long).
DO expect to be confused or overwhelmed by the country's 1,100,000 laws.
DON'T expect anyplace to have non-smoking areas. Germany is a country of smokers! March 2003 Update: Current statistics indicate that not only is Germany an aging economy but within 30 years the population will drop from 82 million people to 60 million. Lots of people on pensions but no "new blood" to pay the taxes for these "non-productive" seniors. Without a change in immigration laws, the population is heading down fast.
DO find the magazine "Spotlight" which is a great publication in English for German students.
DO expect the Turkish population to speak better English than the Germans. Notice I said "speak" as they will speak with you, most Germans, especially in the south will not.
DON'T expect to sell your used things easily as Germans don't buy or sell things with signs and moving sales. You see people buying used things but they are usually from the east such as Poland. It seems they would rather travel 200 kilometers to buy something used than buy it from their neighbor.
DON'T expect to find 7/11s on every corner (actually there are none!). The closest thing you will find is the convenience store at a gas station. Some will be open 24 hours.
DO expect to take cheap, all inclusive holidays for only 300-400 Euro to places like Egypt, Turkey, Tunisia and Greece. March 2003 Update: Turkey has raised its visa for Americans three times this past year, starting out at 45 Euro and now being 100 Euro!! In my last trip there they even tried to charge me 135 Euro for being one day over my visa date! Germans of course incur no visa fee when traveling to Turkey.
And for God's sake DON'T arrive on a Sunday, as NOTHING will be open, including the hotels!

Just another story about Germany's rules!

2002-01-16T12:44:00.000+07:00

Just another story about "Rules".

After a Christmas holiday break in Thailand, I fly back into Frankfurt after a very long, 13 hour flight. I am tired to say the least so I decide to treat myself to a first class ticket home on the train which also allows me access to the nicely furnished Bahn lounge at the airport.

Here I have some coffee, juice and relax. I go into the bathroom and shave and wash my hair and bascially get myself presentable for another 3 hours on the train home. Holding a first class ticket, I am expecting a quiet and relaxing ride back to Erlangen.

I get to the platform at the airport and the train that arrives is not an ICE (Inner City Express) but a far older train. I had kind of expected a newer ICE train for the journey but went ahead and boarded, settled into my "first class" seat (seemed less nice than a 2nd class compartment on the ICE) and we headed to Nurnburg.
I arrive at Nurnburg about 2 and half hours later, get off the train with my small rucksack, looked at the schedule on the track and saw a train for Erlangen is coming in less than 3 minutes. Wow, I thought, what luck!

This train was of course an ICE and I boarded the first class car and sat down for my 10 minute ride to the next station; Erlangen.

Within a minute after we started, a young, blond, very official looking woman who checks tickets announces herself. I of course hand her my ticket and she looks at it and in German, tells me it is the wrong ticket.

I of course am confused and very, very tired having now traveled over 24 hours and being less than 10 minutes away from my apartment, not really in the mood for German "officaldom". i had bought the 1st class to assure myself of no hassels and to make sure I got a seat (I often had to stand in the past of weekend trains between cities).

I soon gather from her that I am on the wrong train (everything of course is in German) and that the ticket has been issued for a non-ICE train, or Regional Express train. News to me as last year, it made no difference.

Note: As it turned out, I was in fact correct but when the bahn card changes were made a few weeks earlier on January 1st, so were many other changes. One of the new rules seems to allow you no flexibility on which train you can take. You must take the train indicated on the ticket even though another train going the same direction (and empty) is available at an earlier time. Makes perfect sense to me.

Anyway. She spends close to the 10 minute time to Erlangen calculating the cost of my ticket. I am quite amazed at this to begin with as I am obviously a foreigner, have obviously not only bought a train ticket, but a first class one at that. Now she is calculating what I wonder?

She than presents me a receipt for 6.80 Euro!!! I am stunned. I am trying to grasp what is going on here as the normal ticket price is only 3.40 Euro. In spite of the fact I have already paid a premium price to ride a train between the two cities 10 minutes apart, she has now doubled the normal fare! It seems I am not even getting a "credit" for this fact.

I paid it and said nothing.

Imagine however the impression that this gives to travelers and business people. It is another story indicating just how inflexible people are in Germany. I can't imagine another culture or official, realizing that this person was a foreigner, not knowing about some NEW rule, boarding another train with a valid FIRST CLASS TICKET, would really go through the lengthy process of making them pay a penalty (it seemed it was almost a fine)for being on the wrong train.

I could have been a foreign investor headed for Erlangen and Siemens, ready to sign a huge deal to move my company here to Germany....not!

Yes, I know, those are the "rules" but common sense and humanity seems to get lost in their enforcement..........

An American English Teacher Living and Working in Germany

2001-10-15T11:15:00.000+07:00

(This is a living document and changes were being made weekly through the end of 2002. - I am only editing it now for major changes as I become aware of them.

Over the past year and a half my experiences throughout Germany have been wide and diverse; with many moments of great pleasure combined with periods of terrible frustration. As an American, and not an EC member, it is a bit more problematic to live and work in Germany and throughout Europe, but even more so if you try to deal with on a daily basis the overwhelming rules and regulations that confront you in Germany now.

Many years ago I lived in Germany from 1976 to 1980. From that experience, (although long ago), I developed a deep love for the country, people and German culture which has all seemed to have changed in so many different ways....or is it just me?

It is the changes that I have spent much time trying to figure out. Is it me just being older? Has the experience faded with time? Are the people really different or is it me? As the cold war ended and the reunification of the east and west occurred, did this somehow change the culture..... or maybe it is all of the above?
Actually, I have begun to think that the reunification of east and west has probably been the greatest change to what is now. Over 10 years have passed and even as I write this, official unemployment is pegged at 9.8%, with seasonally adjusted unemployment announced at 4.01 million people(05 September 2002-see article at side panel of this page). (March 2003 Update: 11.3 % with GDP deficit having risen above the 3.0 cap to 3.8%) In truth however, it is probably far higher as Germans work far fewer hours than Americans and those unemployed with no jobs who are being "trained" for a new career/job don't show up as the unemployed...and this is a very large number and a key component of why you might be working in Germany.

I arrived in Germany once again on Sunday, October 14th, 2001, a bit over a month after the terrible tragedy of 9/11, taking the train to Halle from Frankfurt after my long 13 hour flight from Bangkok.

After only a short time in Halle, I was asked if I would work and live in Dessau. As I knew nothing about the place and in an effort to be a team player, I agreed. Other Internet development work took me back and forth by train to the city of Halle up until Christmas. During this period, I traveled extensively in the east, going to other cities such as Leipzig, Dresden and Berlin.

This was a very interesting experience. It opened my eyes to both the beauty and the ugliness that existed side by side. Don't let anyone tell you there is no longer any pollution in Germany (as some have tried to do as that is what they have been told) as at times in Dessau during the winter mornings it was so bad that tears would roll down my face from the sulfur in the air. I was sick as a dog the first week I was in the city and am convinced it was because of either air or water pollution, or both. Even as I write this (August 2002), with the massive floods inundating large areas of central Europe, this morning's news is discussing the floods sweeping into the city of Bitterfeld (very close to Dessau), which is being referred to as one of the "most chemically polluted cities in Europe, if not the world". Even 12 years after the fall of the wall, the east still has a long way in recovering its beauty, heart and soul.

Note: March 2003 Update:
World's Worst Water Comes from...Belgium...and Germany? 06-Mar-2003
Belgium has the world’s worst water, according to UNESCO. It's dirtier than the water in India, Jordan and nine African countries. The next worst European country is Germany, in 57th place. The best water comes from Finland, Canada and New Zealand. The U.S. is 12th on the list for the cleanest water.

The water quality index rates countries according to the cleanliness of their rivers and underground water, the amount of treatment that they give to sewage and the way they enforce anti-pollution laws. The U.K. is now number 4 for clean water, but the Thames was once filled with sewage. It's now so clean that salmon swim in it. Belgian's environment ministry says things will improve when a sewage treatment plant is completed in Brussels in 2005.

I was left with the impression that there are many angry people in the east. They are frustrated at the economic conditions that exist there today with its extremely high unemployment and the feeling that there is no way out. The youth are angry. The old people are angry. The officials seem to be angry. Tough to find a smile or a kind word. There is a definite Russian feel to some places even today with it being easy to find numerous Russian newspapers but very difficult to find one in English. People speak far more Russian than English as a second language.

The government (the central government now based in Berlin) however does seem to be taking efforts to make things better. There are classes to retrain and educate those that need the training but I sense an underlying sense that this training is perceived as a joke by the majority (at least in the east) and that the programs are a way to get money from the government; a form of scam.

If you are teacher coming here to teach English after being recruited over the Internet, you need to be a bit cautious and ask a few questions as many if not most schools specialize in German government English training programs that are sponsored by the "Arbeitsamt", or unemployment office. You will soon find out that this is a key part of German worker thinking and in many cases is usually the biggest and the best located building in a town, especially in the east.

Note: March 2003 Update: Germany's unemployment has shot up to 11.3% and is climbing fast.

Classes can be quite large with a couple dozen students not being an exceptionally large number. Students in some places (young adults) can be quite unruly and discipline a problem with cell phones frequently going off during classes with loud and disrupting conversations being normal during class. Students simply getting up and walking out or doing whatever they want is also considered acceptable. Part of the reason for this chaos is that the school gets paid for the student if and when they are in class, so the motivation is to keep them in the class (whatever it takes to do so). The student knows they have the upper hand and if they don't want to be there, they will most definitely let you know!

You can immediately tell when you leave the east and enter into the west, either by train or car, as the graffiti decreases and eventually ends. The change is dramatic and is obvious to even the most casual observer as graffiti is on any surface where one can reach with a spray can. In a way it is almost funny to think about the amount of time, energy and cost it must take to paint so many surfaces. Spray paint isn't cheap either!

BERLIN

Berlin is a city that is alive but in a way that is different from other western cities. It is "cold" and "brooding". There is an extreme hardness to the city. It isn't dangerous, just hard. The reasons for this are endless but at the end of the day it is a city worth visiting, living in or soaking up its unique "life's experiences". If you can get a job here, don't pass this experience up!
(My photos of Berlin.)

I spent over 5 days in the various museums alone, followed by endless walks along the streets, parks and riding the trams. I tried to go everywhere that was anywhere. Without a doubt the most rewarding experience for me that Berlin could offer was the Pergamon Museum on Museum Island.
(My photos from the museum.)

The Pergamon is probably one of the most interesting and exciting museums that I have ever been to in the world (and this a pretty impressive list that includes the national museums in Washington, D.C., Athens, London, Crete, Cairo, etc.). It was built between 1910 and 1930 based on the plans of Alfred Messel but finished after Messel's death by Ludwig Hoffmann.

The museum has become world famous for its remarkable collections and ancient architectural remains such as the Pergamon Altar, the Market Gate of Miletus, the Ishtar Gate, the Processional Way from Babylon and the facade from the Mshatta Palace. I took hundreds of photos while inside the Pergamon and hope you enjoy some of those here. It is open Tuesdays to Sundays, 10 A.M. to 6 P.M. but is is closed on Mondays. One web site is http://www.smb.spk-berlin.de and it is in English.
For shopping and entertainment, Berlin's "Ku-Damm" (Kurfurstendamm) area around what use to be the old West Berlin train station and the Berlin Zoo, is probably one of the nicer and more upscale areas in Europe. The train station across from Berlin's Zoo (the world's largest in total number of species) however is old and always extremely crowded and noisy. As I was traveling often to Berlin from Dessau south of Berlin, it was very accessible to me due to the train stations location.

WIESBADEN

Photo of the stunning Markkirche (1853-1862) church and statue in the Markplatz

I had spent 2 years in Wiesbaden in the mid-70s and always remembered how beautiful it was but it wasn't until I returned in the late summer of 2002, with much older eyes, that I really recognized its spectacular beauty and harmony.

Wiesbaden is a city that almost "sings" to you. It is a city of balconies; each filled with their own uniqueness and color, almost alive with their form. The balconies are everywhere and it seems that each one is trying to tell some type of story. I started to take pictures and all I can say is thank goodness I now use a digital camera! Berlin has incredible architecture, Wiesbaden has its baths and balconies.

This past time I arrived from Kassel via train and came into the main train station. I was shocked to see the run downed condition of the station compared to the beauty of so many other stations throughout Germany. Don't let the station's condition scare you however as only a few steps outside of the station you will be blessed to find a most amazing and beautiful city. I don't know the story about the station but there has to be one....

As you walk out of the front of the station, the street that is directly in front of you is "Bahnhoff Strasse". It parallels a very large park and leads to the the church shown above. You will also be able to find a couple of Internet cafes down side streets, one being the Cybercafe on Adelheidstrasse. Another is further down towards the cultural and shopping center of town at the corner of Webergasse and Hirschgraben which is one block up from the ancient Roman wall. Their web site is http://www.planet-internetcafe.de

Wiesbaden has been around a couple thousand years and was once a key camp of the empire's hold over their German frontier. Many ruins, plaques and statues have been found in the area, copies of which can be found in a small park near the above Internet cafe.

The people here seem to be alive! They are smiling, laughing, flirting, talking and just seem to be having fun. If you like wandering about small streets with beautiful cafes, shops and restaurants, try the area around the Hotel Goldener Brunnen on Goldgasse. It is an area that is one block off the main walking zone with its larger, commercial shops. You will also find an amazing place called the Buddha Bar. What a dramatic change from the anger and ugliness of the cities in the east and the parochial locals in Franconia (what an understatement!).
Garden apartments are being built in areas that were once occupied by the US Air Force. This includes both downtown Wiesbaden and Schierstein on the Rhein River. The large US military presence that was once here, other than one small compound at the old Amelia Earhart hotel, are all gone, including the famous USAF hospital that was once here (it is now being turned into a large compound for the state police).

DRESDEN

I visited Dresden and really enjoyed the city and its museums, especially, the Zwinger, but as I write this August 2002, a massive flood has hit it as well as many other historical cities throughout central Europe. The destruction is in the tens of billions of Euro. I think no one knows the extent of the damage or losses.
My photos from Dresden and the Museums

LEIPZIG

Leipzig is a beautiful older city in eastern Germany. I was told it has the largest train station in Germany and from my own experience, if they are counting the number of tracks under the roof, this seems true enough.

Shopping can be done while waiting for trains in the beautiful, multi-leveled shopping mall and just outside the main entrance across the tram tracks in the old town. I found the shopping around these streets to be reasonably priced if you bargained hunted. I even discovered a museum about Egypt.....

HALLE

I found some interesting student cafes, decent music and food but I did get my camera stolen from the inside of my jacket on my last trip there before Christmas 2002. I would have more photos of the town and people but unfortuantely they were in the stolen camera. Shit happens...

Anyway. People are a bit more friendly and open here than in other places such as Dessau. Here however, like so many other places throughout the eastern part of Germany, the unemployment is very high but it doesn't seem to show as bad. I suspect this is because of the large university that is part of the city's culture. It also had/has a large chemical industry but it has been downsized tremendously over the past decade, but inspite of "offical" statements, the water pollution is still quite bad and I would be very careful with anything other than bottled water. See the above UNESCO report.

Apartments are both obtainable and affordable here, although some areas look like combat zones. In my last and final trip there I was stunned as I left the train station for a street car. I had been here many times here before as I had been involved with a web project in late 2001 here. Now however, it has gotten even worse with the areas immediately outside the main entrance looking as if there has been a battle. Buildings are burnt out, trash piled up meters deep in front of abandoned buildings and both regular police and bahn "red berets" (security) everywhere. Quite a change from other stations and areas in other cities in Germany.
There is one thing that I constantly hear and notice; this is comments from Germans who don't notice the changes. I guess if you live there everyday, the change is subtle. Maybe some don't want to see as there is a significant problem with "denial" here. If however, you travel in and out of places and countries over periods of many years, the change slaps you in the face.

DESSAU

If you have a choice to go elsewhere, take it. Life is short and Dessau is a town that has a lot of angry people and I feel the pollution can make you very sick (...air for sure and maybe the water?). There are some good people/teachers/students that pass through it however and it only takes one to make life a wonderful experience but for me, I am finished with this German town.
It is also another odd town (people??!!) in that during the night and winter months the very tall smoke stack from the town's central power plant is brightly lighted. The beams of the search lights are focused on the top of the chimney and one can see clearly the exhaust gases rising from the power plant.

I of course found this to be very odd and questioned people about it. It took some digging however as the locals considered it "normal" and hadn't thought about it. As it turns out, the major of Dessau was for years employed as the manager of the power plant and the lights show the people that the plant (your mayor!!) is providing energy and heat for you! Wow, what a concept!

As already mentioned above, the air and water pollution are still significant issues inspite of the official contentions there are no problems. I suspect that they turn the filters off at night to save the huge cost of these devices and this is the reason that the air is so bad first thing in the morning.

All one has to do however is spend a week here and drink the water and breath the air; you don't need a scientist to tell you the obvious.

Although there are smiling faces here, these were some very unhappy people. One came in every day and cried, another pretty much drunk. I did however try to make them laugh...sometimes that is all you really can do. Every single one however had good hearts, they just seemed so defeated.

KASSEL - www.kasselcity.de

When traveling to this city in the center of Germany by train, you might find the stations a bit confusing (as I did) as there are two main train stations. One is the older station in the center of town and the other (Kassel-Wilhelmshohe), a bit further out which serves the ICE (Inter-City Express) trains. It only takes 2 and a half hours to get here from Nurnburg via ICE.

The ICE station however is very convenient as most of the city's trams seem to terminate there. It is actually very modern with food courts, service centers and ramps that allow you to roll your bags to the train the platforms instead of lugging them up and down steps as is so common in way too many stations.

Unemployment is high with students living here telling me it is over 15% of its 200,000 population. VW has a large distribution facility here and there is also a large arms industry here (tank production) as well as call centers.

March 2003 Update: VW has announced car sales were off substantially (4.9%) in North America last year and on March the 11th, there was a 12% drop in their stock, hitting a new 7 year low. The only good thing about VW's future seems to be the China market where they control 40%. This light might continue to shine as the Chinese with a 7% GDP growth are buying cars like crazy, but the competition is moving in fast!!

North America is 20% of VW's business and if you ask me my opinion, given the raw feelings and emotions that running so high between the nations and people, I really can't see Americans buying anything German, whether it is a BMW, Mercedes, Opel or VW. Americans are very patriotic and boycotts are inevitable, especially if the war turns sour and many young Americans die and are returned home in body bags. (I really don't see sales in Europe increasing either...)

Statistics show that 1 in every 10 German jobs are tied to the automobile industry. I find this such an amazing statistic and part of the true hyprocricy that exists here. Germans pretend to be so "green" yet one of their remaining major industries and jobs producer, autombobile manufacturing, continues to create machines that are designed to guzzle gas and output CO2 emissions. I think if Germans are so concerned about the environment they should get rid of their cars and take public transportation...but maybe not, for it seems they don't mind paying $4 a gallon for gas!

I truly enjoyed my experience here in this city having spent a month here. The people are open and engaging. Very different from my experience in places further south in Franconia and Bavaria. I guess having a foreign population making up 30% of the population makes people a bit more open to outsiders.

Olga and Alex at Serco in Kassel, Germany-a young, married couple from Russia with Ph.D.s who managed to do exceedingly well in spite of their very limited English and practically no German. I was fortunate in the class to have had a dedicated and very professional student, Enrico, that spoke Russia well and when we divided into teams, he tutored the native Russian speakers through each lesson (English to Russian!). It was actually an amazing educational experience, both for them and me and I loved every minute of my time with this group!!!!!

During the summer of 2002, the Documenta 11 (an international art festival) was being presented throughout the city and much had been done to make the city a more international city, including announcements in English at the ICE train station. The centrally located tourist office where everyone I talked to spoke excellent English was also quite pleasant and the blueberry pancakes at the American styled "Stairs" was also nice on a quiet Sunday morning.

There is however a darker side to the city and it doesn't take much effort to find it. I was somewhat amazed at the obvious transvestites around the city, both on the streets and working in some of the pubs. Numerous sex kinos and a street where numerous hookers stand along the street not far from the old train station. Watching the drunks trying to make their way onto the trams, falling over drunk while setting waiting for a bus/tram or trying to cross the streets was sometimes sad. Every city has a soft underbelly, Kassel's is just a bit more open than most.

NURNBURG

What can I say about one of the most beautiful and awe inspiring cities on the planet? Although I have hundreds of photos, they really can't show the beauty of the city, its walls, churches, sculptures and buildings. If you come to Germany for a only a short week, this has to be on the list of places to go.

If you are coming here to teach however, better make sure you have a place to live provided or else you will be living far outside the city. From Erlangen and the headquarters of the largest company in Germany (Siemens), it is only about 15 minutes away either by train or car. There is a special pass between the cities that cost 3.05 Euro one-way. March 2003 Update: The fare has increased to 3.40 Euro.

ERLANGEN

Erlangen is a city that is headquarters to one of the largest companies in Germany; Siemens. It is a company town as they seem to own most everything, including the largest buildings, apartments and houses for their employees. Everything is clean, perfect and well run. It just had its "1,000 year old celebration" this summer as well.

It is also a university town and the city has a large university hospital. These three things combine to bring in a huge number of people from the outside of "Franconia". These "outsiders" and those born here seem to have an underlying friction. Nothing really overt but when you talk to other Germans or Europeans about getting things done here with local officials, the stories start. I have been told time and time again, if you aren't from Franconia, there will be problems and if you are with Siemens, even more so. All quite interesting. People who work for Siemens here are often referred to as "special" by those that don't. I have some thoughts on what this means, none very nice....

I remember one early Sunday morning going to one of the countless "fests" that occur throughout the summer in Germany, this one being in one of the more "trendier" parts of town, an area near the train station which includes bars with names such as Tios, 50/50, Sausalito's and Bogarts.

On this particular Sunday morning there was your typical Bavarian band that was soon followed by a rather abrasive comedian/singer telling jokes. East German jokes. Nasty ones that I had already heard, but in private. There was hysterical laughter from the people standing and sitting in the street. I guess I could understand some of the reasons for the raw humor but on a beautiful Sunday morning, it just seemed out of place. Outsiders, even ones who are German, are not thought fondly of.

Germany is not a nationalist country. After the loss of two world wars, that idea has been beaten out of them. You rarely see "German" flags are far more likely to see flags from the regions you are in. They are however, very regional in their thinking. Questions like, "where are you from?" gets answers like "Franconian" and even though Franconian is not an actual state (it is in Bavaria), people would NEVER tell you they are Bavarian!

Phrases such as "Gruss Gott", "Servus" and "Ade" remind you that you are in an area unique to the rest of Germany and German language. I thought I was in Bavaria but am constantly reminded that I am in "Franconia". Even the food is unique as are some forms of popular beer (wheat beer which is rather sweet) Sort of like saying you are Southern (American) and from Georgia but reminding people you are from north Georgia (with its own unique dialect and food).

Anyway, Erlangen is a pretty town and not what I would consider "hard time" in either working or living but it has a long way to go before I could call it exciting. If you come here with a mate, like to stay home and watch TV and movies, don't like meeting people; you have found your nirvana!

Erlangen is however extremely difficult to find a place to live and this can take months. I searched for months in Erlangen and Nurnburg and it was a real effort to find a place, any place. Be careful if coming to this area and having no place arranged to stay at. A cheap pension here with a shower and toilet down the hall can cost 1,000 Euro a month! Many times there are NO rooms at all. Anywhere. (If you got a position with Siemens, don't expect their "housing office" to help you either-as I was told they would. They just laughed at me when I called and told me to call them back in 6 months!)

There are several services in town to help "find" a place to live however, one which seems to be sanctioned by Siemens. They have a web site at http://www.wohnref.de . Expect to pay a fee and expect a very long wait before you find a place. I eventually found a place with the help of friends from work.

Maybe cities like Bangkok, Hong Kong and Berlin have spoiled me but if you like quiet, easy and serene, this is the place for you. If you like cheap, stay away. Drinks at some popular night spots are 8 Euro each!

I have spent however many wonderful and relaxing hours on the endless bike paths through fields, along the Europa Canal and along the many rivers and streams. I even found my favorite tree on the Regnitz River that I wanted to build a tree house in...but the "rules" would never allow that!! (Try and find a youngster fishing or swimming during the summer months on the beautiful streams and rivers or during the winter, ice skating on the many beautiful ponds. You won't, as there are so many laws that preclude these activities.) When I made an observation about this while walking many kilometers through the woods on a beautiful winter day, with the air crisp, the skies clear, I was wondering where the children were. I asked my German friends why weren't there any children out on the ponds ice skating, and as serious as I asked the question, the answer was, "... you can't ice-skate on the ponds as you will upset the carp and it is against the law to upset them." I kid you not!!! (Upset the fish....tilt....????!!!!)

TEACHING CONTRACTS

Like everywhere else in the world, they are worthless as the paper they are written on. Companies will do exactly what they want when they want for the reasons they want. You will be the last to find out if a change has been made as they don't want you to bolt to another job. August and September are "tricky" months here as that is when the Germans take their 3-4 week holidays in regions like Bavaria. This is also when you will have no work but everywhere else in the world is hiring (Thailand, Korea, Taiwan, Japan, etc.). October is when things kick back in for the "English Teaching Business". Same thing happens in mid-December through mid-
January.

Some companies specialize in twisting the facts, such as stating "you don't pay taxes for 2 years" which actually means it takes that long for the government to catch up with you. You will see those ads on the Internet. Buyer beware! (But what do you care if you are leaving before than anyway?) They also like to tell you what you want to hear before you arrive on that international flight from the US or Thailand. In Thailand, we call it "sweet mouth".

They also forget to tell you about the numerous holidays that Germans take and fail to mention that you will have no work (and no pay) during these extended periods. In Bavaria, this extended holiday period is in August. Of course there is a long (1 month) holiday from mid-December until mid-January. Even if you get a contract with monthly "guarantees", don't expect it to be honored. I also advise you to request the contract in English as the German wording (as I found out) can be very, very tricky and when you think you have a guarantee, in actuality you do not. I really hate to say this, but don't trust anyone on these type of matters as you, the foreign English teacher, as a contractor with no labor union or labor law protection, are a commodity. (That is putting it in a very nice way...)

Germans work far fewer hours than Americans with only 1,500 hours a year (35 hours a week average) being quite common; half of what many Americans work. Taking English lessons is of course always considered "work" and in some departments where I am working, I have been told that managers require staff to take holiday time if they wish to attend English classes. Now that really motivates a professional engineer to learn English for his job!

Beware of being told about that wonderfully furnished apartment you have waiting for you as well. Furnished in the US and furnished in Germany mean two totally different things. I honestly don't know how you can use the same word with the same meaning.

Also be aware of how the apartment is being rented to you, "cold" or "warm", meaning with or without heat. Electric will always be extra and is EXTREMELY expensive here. People set in offices and classrooms without the lights on using the light from their computers to read books to save electricity. I kid you not.
Apartments in Germany are rented without even the basic things such as light fixtures. Don't be shocked when you walk in to that new, unseen apartment of yours and find bare wires hanging from the ceiling or coming out of the wall. Of course the "furnished" part comes in with the fact there is a small table, a chair, a couch with doubles as a bed and a lamp standing in the corner (with no light bulb). Don't expect a shower rod or curtain either. That is furnished isn't it? That's what I was told in Dessau.

Did I mention that stoves and refrigerators aren't normally provided either? Oh, but I did say furnished didn't I?

TEACHING/WORK VISAS (for Americans)

Actually, not that difficult to get one (Canadians seem to have a difficult time for reasons I have yet to understand) but there are a few twists and turns that you need to be made aware of, the first one being it is only good for the city that you are teaching in. If it is issued in Halle, it is only good for Halle and not a small village 20 kilometers away. You would think that it might at least be good for the "state" it is issued in but it is not!

Yes, that's right. If you find work in some small town and than decide for whatever reason that you want to move and try another city (or your employer opens a new office and wants you to teach there), the visa becomes invalid and you must reapply at the new town's city hall (Rathaus), this is all on top of having to re-register with the new town's officials (usually the police).

You will need new letters of employment from your old/new employer. You will need to re-prove you have health insurance. You will also have to undergo a new police check (from both local and Berlin). All this takes time. Another 4 to 6 weeks is normal. Anything that was done before has to all be done again. You will of course pay a new fee for your new visa.

HEALTH INSURANCE

Germany insists that those coming here to teach have health insurance and it is required to have this before you can apply for your teaching visa from the respective city hall. This is referred to as "S8" and is insurance for language students, affiliate students and scholars from abroad. I guess we become "scholars" here.

One organization which handles this is "Buro of Dr. Walter" http://www.reiseversicherung.com which can be reached at 0180 3 91 94 91. They charged in 2001 for individuals up to 29 years old 30 Euro per month and for those up to 69 years old, 51 Euro per month. Whatever you do, don't let a payment slip or arrive late as your insurance is automatically cancelled, even if it arrives a date late and you continue to pay....as I found out.

BEING AN AMERICAN

Note: March 2003 Update: As an American, I suggest you stay as far away as you can as there is a quickly building anti-American feeling here concerning the US, Iraq, Bush and the UN. I am also predicting that the US will shut down most of its remaining bases here and move their forces farther east to more "friendly" countries such as the Czech Republic or Poland. As Rumsfeld said, "Germany is part of the old Europe".

Don't come here with some idea you are better or different or smarter or America is right....unless you want to get kicked back to where you came from.
Germans and many other Europeans are NOT happy with the way that things are right now, right or wrong. They see the current Bush administration's policies as extremely dangerous and short sighted. Honestly, they think we are incredibly stupid...

Issues such as global warming and nuclear energy (waste) are major concerns here and they think America is thumbing their nose at Europe on these issues. Employment is another major issues here but terrorism is not high on their list. Attacking Iraq is not going to make a lot of friends here and lets face it, just showing up as an American, even before you have opened your mouth, makes you a target for their MANY opinions about America and its policies.

My suggestion is you cool your jets. Take a deep breath. Watch and listen. Go with the flow. They don't like Bush; you don't like Bush. They don't like nuclear power; you don't like nuclear power. What's that old globetrotter expression?
"When in Rome, do as the Romans do............"

PHONE SERVICE

Woaaaaa!!!!! That gets everyone talking as everyone has their own version of a horror story to tell about "Telecom". Even my own stories are so bizarre they make no sense in even trying to tell the stories unless you can grasp how a company can have service to an apartment on a Friday and when you try to reconnect service to the same apartment the next week and for nearly 2 months after that, all you hear is you can't get service to that address and there has never been service there (I have a letter actually stating this...).

I like the one where my ISDN and DSL circuits went dead and when I went to Telecom to find out why ("Is my bill paid?" I asked. "Yes it is" was the answer. ), no one, including the woman whose name was on the order to disconnect it, could tell me why or how it was disconnected. Of course this little oversight takes 5 days to correct.

I also love the one concerning my account password for my T-Online account. I had ordered the service over the Internet thinking it would be faster. What a mistake that was. Three weeks later ( I waited patiently as I have been told to do so many times..) a letter comes telling me that my password had been mailed but returned. Of course I got the letter at the address that the password had supposedly been mailed to telling me the password had been returned. Figure the logic of that one out....

I had learned by this time however that the Postal system seems to be able to deliver mail to an address one day and not the next. This seems to be the case in Halle, Dessau and Erlangen. Mail for both myself and others (including businesses in these cities) had been returned. Being a person who likes to solve problems, I went to Telecom to get my password. Simple enough, right? Wrong. (The German Post buying all of DHL for global package delivery should make Federal Express very happy indeed!)

I was told that the password has to be mailed to you. There is no other way to get it. Even though I talked to three different people in the Telecom office and over the phone, asking them to fax it to me, email it to me or mail it to the local Telecom office, there was zero flexibility in the system that solved the inability to mail the password and for me to receive it. I was obviously the person the password was intended for as I had the letter and the letter had my name on it and my passport had the same name.....and so what was the final outcome? I never received the password and I never was able to use the online service "provided" by German Telecom.....and they wonder why they are loosing billions and their CEO got fired.

Note: March 10, 2003 Update: German Telecom this week announced the largest corporate loss in European history posting a $27,100,000,000 US dollar (24.6 billion Euro) loss for last year.

I must be fair however and also state that the people at Telecom are always friendly and do try to help. They even admit there is a problem, are frustrated with it but seem to have no ability to solve a problem....any problem. I just can't seem to understand this disconnect between intelligent and caring workers and a system that gives them no ability to solve a problem....it seems to mirror Germany as a whole.
Most here get a handy (mobile phone) and D2 service seems to be the best value; especially if the people you call or get called from have D2 service as well. Of course the competitor from German Telecom (D1) is much more expensive. You can get a "phone kit" where you get a phone, number and minutes and you simply "recharge" the phone when you run out of minutes by buying a card practically anywhere...of course this service is NOT run by German Telecom so it actually works!

There are also alternative phone/Internet services available now, two of the better known being Arcor and NefKom. The story about "service" seems to be consistent with these companies as well with many waiting 6 weeks or more for service, especially for Internet related services such as DSL.

FLEXIBILITY

There is none. Period. There is no compromise either.

While I am on the topic of flexibility, that seems to be an underlying issue to what is both good and bad about the culture. As long as things work, it is wonderful but God forbid when things break. There doesn't seem to be any way around the problem. No one is willing to accept responsibility for what went wrong and no one is willing to make the decision necessary to fix it. Worse than this, there is even what I call "total denial" as it seems in many cases, the problem never happened or there isn't one. Seems simple enough I guess; you can't have a problem if you are unwilling to admit there is one. Simpler even still is you can't fix what isn't broken. It is an interesting phenomena.

March 2003 Update: One small example is that class enrollment forms that indicate the wrong classroom number for my teaching at Siemens were mentioned to Siemens SQT training exactly one year ago. This information I have tried to correct more than once over the past year. As of today, March 12, 2003, even this simple thing has not been corrected. The reasoning for the inability to change the classroom number is as ridiculous as this paragraph.

TRUST

One of my students told me a story about the American company Walmart who came to Germany and opened stores and tried to introduce the idea of "service" into their business model here.

It was a very radical idea and was doomed for failure. What was it? Having someone
bag your items/groceries as you paid and checked out.

Radical you ask? Yes, for here as people bag their own items out of fear that someone will steal a can of peas or a potato from you as they bag your groceries. You must also provide your own bag to carry the items home or pay extra for one.

Although I can't find any real theft and it seems to be one of the most honest societies there is, (although it was a German girl who stole my new $1,000 Digital camera in Thailand at an Internet cafe) there does seem to be an underlying paranoia that I can't explain. People are terrified of people from the "outside", and this includes everyone not from their village. Beyond that "village security", the world is an unknown and scary place.

It is the same with shopping carts. Expect to have to pay for the privilege to use a cart and return it to the shopping cart rack. It requires you to pay a Euro to use the cart which you get back when it is returned but if you don't have any change, you can forget about using a shopping cart. I don't know but if I had a business that required people to buy a lot of items, I would want to make it easier for them to buy as many items as possible; not harder. Seems very alien to my sense of "retail business". Personally, I can remember buying far less items than I intended to because I simply didn't have the required coin on me to use the cart.....
March 2002 Update: Seems things are changing as I have now been "short-changed" three times in the last two months after buying groceries (a couple Euro each time). You could say it is an issue with changing from the DM to the Euro and it was an honest mistake, but when that happened here in 2002, this was never a problem nor did it ever happen before. It however is happening now. I am now carefully counting my change each and everytime I purchase something. Sad but true.

FOOD

Without a doubt German food is cheap compared to "foreign food". Foreign is defined as Chinese, Thai, American, etc. If you are use to living in the US, you most probably expect Chinese to be the cheapest, here it is one of the most expensive, as is Thai. Beer is cheaper than coke. You better like beer or you might have a tough time here.

Italian however is an exception and is not considered "foreign". Germans seem to live on Spaghetti and Pizza, with both being exceptionally cheap by US standards. Spaghetti is often indicated as the preferred food (over many more expensive foods) when one asks, "What is your favorite food?".

CLOTHING

The first thing you notice is how ridiculously expensive things are; shoes, glasses and clothes in particular. Bicycles at bike shops are priced out of reach of mere mortal teachers like myself and I must resort to buying used bikes from individuals or flea markets. I have paid less for most of my trucks in the US and Thailand than what people here pay for a bicycle. Don't even think about paying for a pair of glasses here. Take a trip to Thailand or Turkey, go to the best optician, buy the best glasses, buy new shoes, some jeans and than fly back to Germany, it's much cheaper!

There does seem to be several things that Germans focus on more than just about anything else. One of these is their hair. In the east, German women seem to love the color burgundy. It is hysterical to watch three women walk down the street, one obviously the grandmother, one the mother and one the daughter, all with bright burgundy hair!

I met a guy from England in Nurenburg on a business trip and said he hadn't been back to the east in 10 years but the first thing he asked me was , "Do they still have burgundy hair there?" Seems nothing has changed but the wall being down.
In the west, there is a heavy focus on breast. It is hard not to notice (to put it mildly) as it is always there for you to look at. The lower the cut and the more it is pushed up, the more in style it appears to be. Young or old, it makes no difference. If you got 'em, flaunt them!

They also love to show just a little of their panties above their pant's line. In other words, there is no doubt what a woman is wearing under that shirt and those tight fitting designer jeans!

The men are as much into hair as the women. They like it short and radical. Body piercing seems to be as frequent on men as women. Ears of course, but nose, eyebrows, belly buttons and tongue are all quite common (and probably some places I haven't got a chance to see).

Shoes are expensive and the Germans love their shoes. It seems to be some form of national pastime in their love for shopping and wearing different styles of shoes. A woman with 40 pairs of shoes doesn't seem to be unusual.
Hair, breasts and shoes....that pretty much sums it up.

BANKING

Banking is a bit different here as everything is accomplished via deductions from your bank account. Checks exist but are rarely used by the common man. All your rent, utilities, phone, cellular, etc. is automatically debited from your account. You better hope that wire transfer from your English school employer is never late and that contract that states you will be paid by the 15th gets honored. It has been my experience that the money shows up on the morning of the 15th.......a few days after the money was taken for the rent and electric.

It also amazes me, like no other job on the planet, that teachers are expected to work their first 45 days without any pay and accept this as "normal". Although I do accept it as "normal" , I wonder what carpenter, plumber, electrician or secretary would show up for a new job and say "Sure, no problem. Don't pay me for 45 days." I think many of our students would think their teachers were really quite stupid and naive if they really knew what we put up with. I know my German students would....

March 2003 Update: The German banks are in serious problems and inspite of their own EC rules that preclude the government bailing out banks, this "rule" is being re-considered as is the rule concerning the maximum deficit allowed. The German inspired law states that no EU member can have a deficit greater than 3.0% of GDP, Germany's has now hit 3.8% of GDP.

TRAVEL and TRANSPORTATION

The first thing you need to do if you spend any time in Germany and want to travel by train is to buy a BahnCard. This card, with your photo on it, gets you a 50% discount on every ticket you buy for a year. It is an amazing deal and a single round trip between Berlin to Munich will practically pay for the card.

March 2003 Update: Don't buy a bahn card now as the rules changed January 01, 2003. They now only allow a 25% discount and there are far more restrictions and conditions on the card's use. Yes, one of the thing's that actually worked and was simple is now complex and difficult. Service and reliability has also noticably decreased.

There also seems to be a rule that allows you a free ride if you are continuing your journey from a train trip onto the local public transportation. This rule seems to allow you a free ride on the tram/bus to your destination although I am not sure this is 100% the rule in all places.

The Regional Express trains are usually pretty reliable and you won't have any problem finding a seat but it can be difficult to next to impossible on many of the ICE trains. I highly recommend you spend a few Euro more and reserve a seat if you don't want to end up setting on the floor between compartments for 5 hours.

Buses and trams of course require a ticket but I have never once in all my years of travel in Germany saw a ticket inspector. The whole system seems to function on fear out of being caught by the non-existent inspector and fined the now 60 Euro fine. I of course always buy a ticket and always follow the law...........of course.
Taxis are always expensive in Europe wherever you go. Kassel seems to be less than most, Erlangen is outrageous. If you grab a cab to go any distance, plan on at least 10 Euro. If you can, take a bus or tram!

Flying in and out of Frankfurt and Berlin is a breeze. You can also get some incredibly good deals from these airports as well. I often found roundtrip specials to Bangkok priced at less than 600 Euro from Berlin and 400 Euro to Hong Kong. There are also super discount airlines running out of Berlin to London. Immigration is non-existent and passports are seldom looked at if you are a US citizen.

THE INTERNET

Good luck is all I can say. A place like Berlin will have a place with over 300 computers open 24 hours a day but "smaller" places like Erlangen and Nurenburg are near impossible to find access during normal business hours and you can forget about it in the evenings or on Sundays. You might get lucky at a library as in Dessau or find a Quelle electronics store with a few older PCs connected to the Internet (Erlangen) at 2 Euro an hour.

I have some very passionate feelings about the need for the Internet for both business and education. I think I am accurate in saying that most Germans still view it as something to be feared and unnecessary. You ask 20 year old university students what their email address is and you get answers like, "why would I need email?" or ask 45 year old engineers how long they have been using email and you get answers , "3 years"; these things disturb me as the supposeded "elite" haven't grasped the necessity of the Interent for growth, education, prosperity and communications. I assure you that the Koreans, Thai and Chinese have!!

DOING BUSINESS and the ECONOMY

Germany is a "company town". It is not entrepreneurial. Working for yourself is even looked down upon as having a job with a big business and a desk that you go to for the next 30 years is considered what is appropriate and correct. It is secure and that is what is important (never mind the fact that all over Germany companies are going out of business or downsizing large percentages of their workforce. e.g. Siemens, Borsig, Holtzman, Dornier,etc.) Only people who aren't "qualified" to work for a big company have their own business.....but this will change. Being an entrepreneur here is the opposite of what it is in America, with America being something you aspire to have and here something only desperate people do....like the Turks.

I see so many parallels with America 20 years ago. It is shifting (and must shift) from an industrial base with heavy manufacturing to a service/information economy. How this will happen, I have no idea but it must happen if there is any hope to employ the ever increasing unemployed. (Honestly, I don't think it will happen and Germany, as a global industrial power is finished.-I do agree with Rumsfeld on this one point; Germany is the "old Europe", I just don't think he relalizes how "old" it really is.)

It has been my observation over many years and through many cultures that technology is the medium for this transition. Germans are unwilling to embrace the pace of technological change that is occurring, very much like American managers were unwilling to do in the early 80s. Those that did not adapt however were finished by the late 80s and a "new breed" entered the managerial workforce, through either mergers or mass layoffs. Neither of these vechiles will happen in Germany due to the existing laws. I see no way to solve the problem, now or in the future.

What is different here however is even the majority of the youth seems unwilling or unable to embrace these changes as well, either in the east or west. It doesn't seem the leadership wishes to embrace these changes either and from what I can tell, education in basic computer, Internet and programming skills is practically non-existent. In my opinion, they are headed for a very rude awakening. In Germany, however I am not sure the system will allow the necessary changes that will assure survival.

The social net in Germany is huge and everyone knows if there is no work, they will get money from the state for as long as they need it. Don't want to work? Well, there is no real reason for you to do so as the system will make sure you have a place to live, food, health care and enough for your evening beer. This is all a "God given right". I am however afraid they are headed for a very nasty surprise.
The SPD seems to be headed for another victory in September and the main topics at the moment have shifted from unemployment, taxes and energy policies to recovery from the devastating August 2002 floods. The issues with unemployment will remain however and the solutions seem to favor massive tax cuts to the large businesses such as Volkswagen and Siemens, which will supposedly allow them to invest more capital in new plants and hire new employees. The SPD and the current Chancellor has stated this strategy will cut unemployment by half. Time will tell....

March 2003 Update: Of course Shroeder has won again but suffered a massive defeat in the first test of his new government some months later when his party had state elections. Those that said nothing before are upset about the new taxes being implemented to offset the falling economy. That however has been shifted onto the back burner as he has become a "leader" in the new anti-war (anti-American) crusade. In my opinion, the guy is an an opportunist and these actions are going to have extreme reprecussions on Germany's economy and their exports. I also feel it is part of the bigger game that France and Germany are playing for the "leadership" role in what will be the "Pesident of Europe". Achieving that position seems to be linked to an anti-American stance.

They are also calling for changes at the Arbeitsamt Office that will focus these resources on finding people jobs instead of dolling out money. This got a large laugh from my Kassel students when I read this to them in English as they seem to think that is the Arbeitsamt job now (...so why would it change in the future. They got a point...)

There also is a stated objective to cut benefits if an unemployed worker is unwilling to move to another city to take a new job. This also got quite a chuckle from my students as I was told this would never be enforced and was political suicide. (The quickest way to downsize a company is to move it to another town..)
Although there is a huge social net here and Germans work far fewer hours than Americans, I suspect that in reality, the deep frustration and sometimes anger one encounters comes from their own inability to get anything done or the massive constraints and regulations that block almost any action. I constantly hear how unhappy people are and how frustrated they are in their environments, with or without work, which I think contributes to the form of "fatalism" that one constantly encounters.

I wish I could see a solution but I can't. The problem however is extremely obvious. Will it change? Unfortunately no...at least not without "radical reform" and that is something that Germans are unwilling or unable to do, at least in the foreseeable future (....but than, who foresaw the wall coming down and the Soviet Union breaking apart?).

An election update: Monday September 23, 2002-The First Day of Fall/Autumn
Shroeder and the SPD party with a coalition with the Green Party has narrowly won the election this morning. In my opinion, the required deregulation that was imperative to improve conditions and turn the economy around will not happen. Labor and unions were key to his win and they have no stomach or flexibility to change the necessary laws to be more competitive in either Europe or in a global economy. 40,000 small businesses in Germany are projected to go out of business in 2003...
The DAX has been the worst performing market in Europe, now down over 30%. It will get worse. The global economy is flat and I expect it to get even worse with oil prices climbing and as I write this today, oil over $30 a barrel and the US about ready to invade/attack Iraq and oust Hussein.

March 2003 Update: Oil prices now at $40 a barrel and unemployment at 11.3%. What is interesting to note is that the unemployment in Holland, on Germany's northwest border, is 2%. I was just there and things are booming with beautiful new buildings everyhwere from the border until you reach Amsterdam.

Unemployment will increase. I guess if you are an English teacher this is good as there will probably be more Arbeitsamt classes to teach. Just don't expect to find smiling and happy faces when you enter the classroom.

Germany is no longer the engine of Europe's growth; it has stalled.....

CONCLUSION

My dear reader, you have now read a more realistic portrayal of actual life in Germany as a foreigner. Like everywhere on this wonderful planet we call "Earth", life is highly complex with many swirling colors. Nothing is right or wrong, it is just a form of grey. Life here is no different. Take the best, accept the worse, try to ignore the despair in the East, enjoy the beer, make a student happy, watch an idea unfold and life will be wonderful!

March 2003 Update: As an American, stay away. Life is truly short and there are so many other places that need and appreciate your hard work, talents, ideas and motivation! These are all qualities that seem to be unwelcomed traits in Germany as they go against the grain of German culture and society as it is today. Notice I said today! Not what it once was....

Although I had some wonderful moments with some really good people and students, once you leave the classroom, things are "ugly". "Business is business" as I have been reminded and you as a teacher are at the bottom of whatever "pole" (pile!) there is.

I spent most of my last few months in 2003 listening to people dicuss their jobs, the economy, taxes, the war, etc. I felt like I should have had couches in the room instead of chairs. The young engineers are stifled and are angry. Any creativity is crushed with "why should we do it a different way as it has been working perfectly for 20 years the old way". You ask the younger professionals what they want, and the response is a house and their pension (and this is from people in their 20s!!!). You ask," don't you want to be a manager," and without exception, they say "no!". It seems no one wants to take or have any responsibility anymore....

All the best, Mystic

Thailand to Holland Visa Runs

2001-06-02T10:48:00.000+07:00

A Visa Run to Amsterdan in June 2001.

Well....as crazy as it all sounds, here I am once again back in Amsterdam and once again, looking for maps and books. I like to read books on "alternative" views of history and one of my favorite authors is Graham Hancock. I was fortunate enough to be with my best friend and finding another book of his, "Keeper of Genesis" really topped off a wonderful morning. One of his other books, the "Fingerprints of the Gods" has become my "bible" and reference point for all other similar books.

After we finished our coffee and I had time to write a few notes in my journal, we set out for the Thai Consulate here in Amsterdam. Since I didn't know exactly where it was and armed only with an address from the Internet, we decided to grab a taxi from the taxi stand in front of the train station.

I can remember when every taxi was a mercedes but it appears those days are over as most cars are some other manufacturer. After what seemed like a long cab ride and especially with the meter clicking off guilders like crazy, 54 guilders later, we arrived at an address that appeared to be some form of townhouse with no obvious signs of it being the right place.

I got out of the cab and walked up the sidewalk towards the door and posted in the window was a small sign telling those that came that the consulate had moved. I copied the address down and headed out once again across town. This time we headed for what turned out to be a brand new high-rise at the Amstel Train Station where there was also an Amstel brewery. How appropriate I thought.

We exited the cab and headed up an elevator to an office that stated it was the Thai consulate but there were no Thais to be found, anywhere. How odd I thought as in Washington, D.C. and Chicago, Illinois I had dealt only with Thais. Here it appeared that consulate matters were being handled by some type of international law/professional services firm.

I presented the lady at the desk with my letter, degree and TEFL certificate and in less than 10 minutes and 84 guilders later, we were walking out the door with a one year, multiple-entry, non-immigrant "B" class visa for Thailand! Yes!
This time, knowing where we were, we took the train back into central Amsterdam, which was a heck of a lot cheaper than taking a taxi.

January 2003 Update

This consulate has once again moved for the 3rd time in three years. It is now located at the law office of:
Hoegen Dijkhof Advocaen BV/De Lairessestraat 127
1075 HJ Amsterdam

Another Cambodian Visa Run

2001-05-02T10:46:00.000+07:00

May 2001

The morning starts off with a start as I woke up thinking I was late. I had purchased a cheap, 100 baht alarm clock the night before and discovered that only the second hand was working and of course the alarm had not gone off. Fortunately however, it was only 6:40 and I wasn't suppose to meet my van for Cambodia until 7:30.

Cambodian/Thai border crossing - Aranyaprathet, Thailand

I took my shower and got dressed and headed downstairs to collect the outrageous 300 baht key deposit from the night before. I say outrageous as the room only cost 200 baht (fan only/no hot water). I suspect that the Sawasdee Sea View Hotel on Soi 10 in Pattaya was using the key deposit as a way to actually get more as many would simply leave their keys in the room and/or forget about the deposit. I suspect many don't even remember checking in from the looks of some in the lobby.

I walked along the Beach Road towards Soi Post Office (Soi 13/1) where "Mr. Boon's Travel and Law" firm is being given 2,500 baht to run me to Cambodia for the day and handle all the required paperwork. As I near Soi Post Office around 7:15, I see the usual "ladyboys" that hang out there on that corner. This always surprises me as I have stayed here on this same Soi before and once when I got up at sunrise to go take pictures, they were out on this same corner at the crack of dawn. There is also a Thai woman across the street at this early hour obviously in bad shape setting and drinking beer and talking loudly to herself. As I wait for the van to show up, two more ex-pats show up for the same trip and they are Germans making the visa run with me.

For the next 45 minutes I set there reading my paper and watching the spectacle unfold and Pattaya "come alive". The lady across the street continues with her drunken and loud ramblings and crosses the street several times, blocking and cursing at both people and traffic, once to buy two more cans of beer. I thought this was so very odd from a Thai and from the looks of the Thais who were watching, I think they did as well.

Eventually the van arrives, and the three of us get in to a very comfortable mini-van and get underway just a bit after 8. We than start to pick up the remaining passengers from their hotels and around 9 we are on the main highway heading to the border town of Aranyaprathet.

We find our way down some twisty back roads out of Pattaya, passing the International School of the Regents and than the signs are pointing to Kabin Buri as we head down Highway 331. Someone finds a German language video tape as the van has a nicely integrated video/TV system and for the next couple of hours I watch the most amazing German show which had some very famous individuals on it as guest including Janet Jackson, Rod Stewart (seemed incredibly stoned or drunk or both), Kevin Costner, etc. and some very wacky comedy skits and stunts. At times it actually was quite funny and the Germans were roaring with laughter every few minutes or so.

As we watched the TV, we make our second stop (the first was at a gas station for those who started drinking beer before we even got into the van) at 10:00 at a Shell Gas Station where we met up with another van from the same company that is full of other Europeans also making their visa run. Apparently, I am the only American on this trip as well. (Seems there just aren't that many Americans running around in South East Asia anymore.) We finish our paperwork for the visas required and hand over our passports. As I had only paid a 500 baht deposit, I had to pay the remaining 2,000 baht here.

Right after we left the station, the highway changes into 304 and 10 minutes later we are making a right hand turn onto Highway 33 with the signs pointing to Sakaelo. At 11:45 we stop at a restaurant in Sakaelo for a buffet lunch, Thai style. No one had mentioned this to me and I was getting a bit annoyed at all these stops we were making as I really needed to catch the bust back to Bangkok that night. I had noticed right before we stopped however a building on the right side of the road that had a sign stating it was the "Counsel General of the Kingdom of Cambodia" and thought maybe this might have something to do with it. Apparently though, no one else seemed to know why we were stopping until the driver from the other van and obvious "boss" of this excursion told us we were having lunch.

At 13:00 we left the restaurant (lunch was free and included in the 2,500 baht fee) and it started to rain as we entered an area full of rice paddies. All I could think about was the "killing fields" as we passed one rain filled paddy after another. I knew it hadn't been on this side of the border but still with the pouring rain, hills in the distance and the rice paddies around me, the impressions of what has been written seemed to fit what I was seeing. It was in this area that I started to notice a heavy military presence, seeing bases with signs stating "3rd Infantry Battalion-12th Infantry Regiment of the Queen's Guard Task Force" followed by other smaller installations and checkpoints as we got closer to the border. I also noticed signs for many kilometers indicating how far the "Rongkloe Market" was. It was not until we arrived at the border that Rongkloe and the border town of Aranyaprathet were in the same place.

Off to left I noticed a train in the not so far distance and as soon learnt this was the train from Bangkok that actually went to Aranyaprathet. Someone mentioned that only Thais rode this but I questioned that assertion and will check it out later in Bangkok as it might be a cheap and easy way to make these border runs in the future. I even learned that at one point it had actually gone into Cambodia at the border crossing we were headed for.

Looking into Cambodia from Thailand - May 2001

The border was everything I expected and more. I had been warned of the kids and the beggars and war cripples but nothing prepared me for the girl missing a face. She was there in the sea of humanity, looking at everyone with huge eyes from behind a face missing most of its' features including a nose. She seemed to know that I was studying her, (I really wasn't being obvious) but for some reason she followed me, but not like the other kids, begging and repeating the same line over and over and over again. She was somehow different. I could see light in her eyes although I was repulsed at the "monster" that I was looking at. I watched her place a can of coke on the ground and with a straw she drank it. Never touching the can with either her "mouth" or her hands. It was something I will probably never forget.

The Cambodian/Thai border - May 2001

There were of course the others. The many amputees rolling around in hand made carts of one sort or another. There were the two kids, older actually, playing with very realistic versions of a .45 and sawed off pump shotgun. At first when seeing the shotgun coming out of the crowd I almost went for cover. It was surreal to watch these "children" play their game against this background.

I did venture down the street a bit. There was casino after casino either being built or already operational. There were many Chinese looking families coming into the area from Thailand. I guess they were Chinese Thais, as they do like their gambling. I had seen enough already however and decided this was not what I was interested in at the moment.

The actual border "crossing" was one of the many jokes in this part of the world. Clear out through Thai immigration, walk a few meters to a window that has "arrival" over it for Cambodia, get an entry stamp, and than step 1 meter to the right and get an exit stamp from the window marked "departure". It was literally that easy. Walked back a few meters to the Thai immigration building where they took my passport behind an air conditioned, computer supported , tinted window. A few seconds later my passport is handed back to me and I am now able to stay another 30 days in the Kingdom.

We headed back to the vans and were inundated with kids. No was not an option. Gave one young boy half my Lemon Manao and within the blink of an eye, the can was gone but he was still there. I wondered where it went but he was back asking for more, anything really. Money or drink seemed to please them. They were all asking for 100 baht which I thought was interesting. There were also others, before and now, trying to get us to use them and their large umbrellas as "escorts" in the hot sun. Actually, it wasn't that hot (for Thailand) and there was a slight breeze that I found quite nice if you weren't in the direct sun.

At exactly 15:00 we closed the doors, starting to drive away with the children running along the van, pounding on the windows still repeating their lines. One older boy actually looked very pissed and angry and hit the class with the bottom of his palm very hard several times. There was nothing innocent in those eyes I thought.

The trip back was uneventful. We made one pit stop at the same gas station where we all got together and did the passport paperwork. After that stop it started to get dark and other than the constant loud snoring from the Germans in the back, the trip back to Pattaya was actually quite pleasant. The sun was setting out my right window and there were some amazing colors in the sky that night and it reminded me why I was here and brought a smile to my face.

My Web Efforts

2000-01-01T15:15:00.000+07:00

www.cambodianonline.net
www.airservicesasia.com
www.royalthaigroup.com
www.learningadventure.org

Some of my favorite quotes...

2000-01-01T01:15:00.000+07:00

"Go and look behind the Ranges-something lost behind the Ranges.
Lost and waiting for you. Go! " --- Rudyard Kipling

"Ye shall know the Truth, And the Truth shall make you angry!" — Aldous Huxley

"It is really quite amazing by what margins competent but conservative scientists and engineers can miss the mark, when they start with the preconceived idea that what they are investigating is impossible. When this happens, the most well-informed men become blinded by their prejudices and are unable to see what lies directly ahead of them. " ---
Arthur C. Clarke - Science Writer